How do you tell if your cat is fat?


Cat on Baby Scale
This scale does not tip when your cat walks on it. I have added a non-skid mat.

You can weigh her.  The easiest way to do this is to purchase a baby scale.  There are many brands online for purchase – check the customer reviews.  You will not be putting the scale through the heavy use a veterinary clinic does, so one of the less expensive ones should work.  I prefer the style that does not have a separate tray – these do not “tilt” if your cat backs up or steps on the edge.

But weight does not tell the entire story…

The Body Condition Score – how do you tell if your cat is fat?


  • assigns a number between 1-9 to your cat
  • uses your cat’s profile
  • uses how much fat covers the ribs
  • uses how big is the fat pad on her belly
  • a score of 1 is skeletal
  • a score of 9 is very overweight
  • a score of 5 is JUST RIGHT!

The BCS ( Body Condition Score chart ) in 3 steps

  1. Look at your cat from overhead
  2. Look at your cat from the side
  3. Feel your cat’s ribs

Your Cat from Overhead – your cat should have a “waist” between the end of his ribs and his hips

Your Cat should have a waist
From Left to Right: Gus as he lost weight BCS 8, BCS 6.5, BCS 5

Your cat from the side – your cat should have a “tuck” when seen/felt from the side – this is separate from the loose flap of skin on the belly

Your Cat should have a tuck when seen from the side
Zelda as she lost weight: Left – BCS of 9, and BCS of 6

Feel Your Cat’s Ribs

 

 

  • Feel your cat’s side with FLAT fingers – you should be able to feel her ribs; there will be small layer amount of fat
  • If you have to “dig” (turn your fingers in ) a little, her score may be a 6 or 7
  • If you can’t feel her ribs at all because of the fat covering, she is most likely a score 8 or 9 – she will have a rounded belly with an easily felt fat pad.
if your cat is long-haired, it is much harder to score her visually.  You will have to feel her waist and “tuck” through the fur.

Muscle Condition – part of your cat’s body condition


 

How do you tell if your cat is fat? Check her muscle condition.

  • Use your fingers to feel the muscle along either side of the spine.
  • What you are feeling for is the thickness of the muscle.
  • A healthy young cat’s back muscles will feel like the outer edge of the palm of your hand.
  • As your cat ages or becomes sick, the muscles will thin out and feel more like the balls of your hands (MILD muscle loss).
  • Further aging and disorders like chronic kidney disease can reduce muscle mass further. The muscle will feel more like the backs of your hands (MODERATE muscle loss).
  • With very old or very sick cats, the vertebrae and pelvic bones become more pronounced  and feel more like your knuckles (SEVERE muscle loss).
You can assess your cat’s muscle condition when you are stroking her – think of it as a back massage!

Feeding Your Cat – Choosing a Food


Cats evolved as predators. They get most of their nutrition from meat. They have small stomachs and short gastrointestinal tracts designed to digest animal protein (meat). Cats are what we call “obligate carnivores” -they must eat meat, unlike dogs and humans who are omnivores (eat a combination of plant and animal foods).

Cat hunting treat ball
Zelda “hunts” some dry food from a treat ball

So what do I feed my cat? A diet high in protein.


How much protein?

  • Feral cats consume of diet of about 52% kcal of protein and 46%  kcal of fat.
  • Nutrient Profiles of Feral-Cats
  • Adult domestic cats when given the choice, eat 52% kcal protein, 36% kcal fat and 12% kcal carbohydrates
  • Protein and carbohydrates provide about 4 kcal per gram of food, while fats supply 9 kcal per gram of food.
  • A 100 kcal portion of food of choice for an adult domestic cat would contain about 13 g protein, 4 g fat and 3 g carbohydrates.
  • The guaranteed analysis on the pet food label refers to weights of the nutrients.

The Label on the Cat Food


Pet food is regulated somewhat loosely – the The Association of American Feed Control Officials or AAFCO is an organization with no actual regulatory authority although individual members may have jurisdiction in their countries. The FDA is a member of AAFCO and has regulatory authority in the United States.

  • AAFCO sets recommended standards for nutrient levels and ingredients in pet food.
  • Most pet food manufacturers make their food to meet or exceed these requirements. 
  • AAFCO also provides models for feeding trials.
  • AAFCO recommends a minimum of 26% crude protein in cat foods.

Don’t Forget the Water!

The label on a can of Purina Pro Plan canned cat food reports a minimum protein of 10%.  The food has a maximum moisture level of 78%. The canned food has 100%-78% = 22% dry matter. Per 100g, 10g are protein, 78g are water resulting 12g of dry matter. 10g/22g = 0.45. Multiply by 100 to get 45% of crude protein dry matter.

Comparing Pet Foods

Maintenance Diet Label

Label Maintenance Cat Food
This a label for a maintenance diet for Maine Coon cats.

Note the protein exceeds the minimum of 26%. This food is for maintenance of adult cats.

Restricted Diet Label

AAFCO cat kidney food
The feeding statement on this label says the food is for intermittent feeding.

This is a label from a food designed for cats with kidney disease – it is lower in protein than a maintenance diet. It should be fed under the direction of a veterinarian.  You may see this type of label on food toppers and other products that are not a balanced diet.

 

Feeding Trial Label

AAFCO feeding test

This food was tested by being fed to a cats in a research setting.  Cats are monitored by evaluating their weight, stool, urine, and blood periodically.

The feeding trial is the GOLD standard to evaluate a pet food. Most pet foods are recipes and few pet food manufacturers can afford to maintain colonies of cats to feed the food to and monitor their health. This falls to the larger, more established pet food manufacturers who can afford this expense. If you see the feeding statement on the bag or can, you know cats have eaten the food and thrived.

Canned or Dry?


Cats will thrive on an all dry diet as well as a 100% canned diet. Cats appreciate variety and feeding your cat a mixture of canned and dry may fit the bill.

Canned Foods

canned cat food meal feeding
Canned foods lend themselves to meal feeding.
  • most of the time (but not always) has more protein than dry food
  • provides water to your cat
  • cats in the wild get most of their water from the prey animals they eat
  • Canned foods lend themselves to meal feeding

 

Dry Foods

Dry cat food in puzzle feeder
Dry foods are easy to use in puzzle feeders.
  • convenient
  • do not spoil when left out
  • work well in puzzle feeders, that can provide your cat with some much needed stimulation while you are away
  • Like potato chips for humans, dry cat foods are formulated to be tasty and are often high in calories.

 

Feeding Your Cat – Which Food?


 

  • Choose a food that lists meat and/or fish at the top of the ingredient list.
  • Choose a food that meets the AAFCO nutritional minimums.
  • Choose a food from a reputable manufacturer, one that employs a veterinary nutritionist
  • Beware of marketing that targets us, the owners. For example, some brands offer cranberries or blueberries in their foods. While not harmful, there are no clinical studies at this time that show the benefits of these ingredients to cats.

The Cat Friendly Home: A safe place for your cat

Cats are not small dogs nor are they humans in little fur suits. What kind of environment do they need to stay healthy and happy?

 ENVIRONMENTAL GUIDELINES – WHAT DO CATS NEED?

  • a safe place
  • access to multiple, separate resources
  • opportunities for predatory play
  • positive and predictable interactions with humans
  • a habitat that respects the cat’s sense of smell

The cat friendly home: a safe place


The domestic cat’s close relative, the African wildcat, takes shelter in hollow trees, rock crevices or dense thickets when not out hunting for food (African Wildcat Field Guide).  The female wildcat often chooses burrows abandoned by other animals such as the Fennec fox to raise her kittens and she moves them frequently to other dens.

What’s so great about a burrow or den?

  • easy to defend against predators
  • usually out of the way
  • protects the inhabitants from the extremes of temperature and exposure to weather.

Our indoor cats will choose a safe place in the same way as their wild relatives – a place that is secure, secluded, a hiding place to retreat to, warm in the winter, cool in the summer.

Hide box for safe place on a commercial cat tree

Many cats prefer high places.

  • it is easy to see if another cat, pet or human is coming
  • it is harder for humans especially children to reach up and disturb kitty
  • Cons: kitty does have to come down to eat, drink, etc

 

 

A  cat can have more than one “safe place”


  • one may be high
  • another may be low
  • shared with a cat of the same socialgroup
  • time-shared with a cat not a member of the group
  • chosen for temperature
  • day- or night-time use

    Safe place for a winter afternoon: a curtain in a sunny window hides a surprise – a cat napping inside!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

safe places can change

Gus chose the dresser in the bedroom as a place to spend the night shortly after he moved in. We placed a fleece blanket on top of the dresser to keep him comfy. After 6 months or so, he decided to sleep on the desk chair in in the office at night. His latest choice is a pillow at the head of the bed – a small fleece square is on top of the pillow to manage the fur!

 

 

the cat friendly home: A safe place for your cat – tips for cat guardians


A safe place can take many forms from a commercial cat tree to a cardboard box in a closet.  There is even a gadget called a “Door Buddy” to the closet door ajar enough for only the cat to pass through.  Watch your cat and see where she chooses to have a safe place.

Your cat’s carrier can be a safe place.

  1. Leave the carrier out in an out of the way place.
  2. Put some of your cat’s favorite treats or a meal close to or inside the carrier.
  3. A cover out of light weight fleece  is easy to make (hemming is not needed).  It will make the carrier dark and inviting and can be coordinated with your decor!

If we’re lucky, the carrier will become a portable safe place for your kitty to travel in – perhaps to the veterinary clinic!