Tag: cat care

Diagnosing and Treating Hyperthyroidism in Cats

Posted on by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

 

Over 10% of cats over 8 years old will be diagnosed with hyperthyroidism in their lives.  Although evidence points to thyroid disrupting chemicals in the cats’ food and environment, we don’t really know why these cats will become hyperthyroid.  Prompt diagnosis and treatment will help these cats live long and healthy lives.

Diagnosing and Treating Hyperthyroidism in Cats

Diagnosing

Clinical signs of hyperthyroidism include increased appetite and weight loss. These signs progress slowly and it may be months to years before the cat owner realizes that something is wrong.

Cats are considered seniors at the age of seven. Regular lab work is recommended for senior cats and most senior feline blood panels include a thyroid hormone (T4) measurement. Persistently elevated T4 concentrations coupled with one or more of the classic clinical signs (below) at the same time often confirms the diagnosis of hyperthyroidism. (Reference 1)

  • weight loss
  • increased thirst and urination
  • increased vocalization
  • hyperactivity
  • rapid pulse and breathing
  • vomiting, diarrhea
  • unkempt hair coat

This list of clinical signs is also shared with other feline diseases, such as diabetes, kidney disease, and GI disorders. These diseases can lower the T4 measurement, so that it is in the reference range, making diagnosis of hyperthyroidism challenging.

a challenging diagnosis

Cats that may have kidney disease as well as hyperthyroidism are particularly challenging to diagnose. Thyroid hormone increases the blood flow through the kidneys, often lowering kidney values to within the reference ranges. At the same time, kidney disease impairs the binding of T4 to proteins, reducing the T4 concentration. One disease masks the other and vice versa (Reference 2).

Cats with borderline T4 values and those suspected of having another chronic disease will need additional testing before a definitive diagnosis of hyperthyroidism is made. The veterinarian may request a more sensitive test called a “free T4 by equilibrium dialysis” in addition to remeasuring total T4. “Free T4” measures a form of T4 that is not bound to proteins in the blood. (Reference 3)

Routine thyroid monitoring in humans and dogs measures levels of  TSH or thyroid stimulating hormone. Unfortunately, levels of  TSH in hyperthyroid cats are often too low to be detected using canine tests. Zomedica has recently developed a feline TSH assay capable of measuring the low levels of TSH in cats which may aid in diagnosing feline hyperthyroidism. (Reference 3)

treating hyperthyroidism in cats

At the present time, there are 4 treatments available to cats with hyperthyroidism (Reference 1).

  • radioactive iodine (I-131)
  • medical management with a drug called methimazole
  • surgical removal of abnormal thyroid tissue
  • dietary therapy using iodine-restricted food

1. Radioactive Iodine (I-131)

Treating hyperthyroidism in cats with radiation must be done at a licensed facility. An injection of radioactive iodine is given under the skin, like a vaccine. The cat stays at the facility until radiation levels drop enough to send cat home (about 3-4 days) (Reference 1, 4)

  • 95% cure rate
  • side effects are rare
  • small risk of hypothyroidism (too much tissue is destroyed and the cat will need thyroid supplements)
  • owner must store wastes and soiled litter for 2 weeks
  • cannot cuddle kitty for extended times for 2 weeks post discharge (e.g. cat cannot sleep on bed)

2. Medical Management with Methimazole (Reference 1)

  • not a cure and the cat must receive daily medication to manage his hyperthyroidism
  • methimazole is available in pills and transdermal gel
  • frequent monitoring of T4 values is necessary
  • side effects: vomiting, facial itching, liver failure
  • tumor may continue to grow and become cancerous

3. Surgical Removal of Thyroid Gland (Reference 1)

The abnormal thyroid tissue is removed surgically, leaving the normal tissue alone. It is a procedure most surgeons can perform.

  • up to 90% cure rate
  • if not all the abnormal tissue is removed, hyperthyroidism can return
  • general anesthesia can be risky in cats with cardiac issues and kidney disease
  • there is a risk of damaging the adjacent parathyroid glands (regulate calcium in the body)
  • risk of hypothyroidism if too much normal tissue is removed

4. Dietary therapy (Reference 1)

Hills y/d diet reduces the amount of thyroid hormone in the body by decreasing the amount of iodine in the cat’s food.

  • response is 82% when on the diet
  • safe for cats with kidney disease
  • the cat cannot eat other foods
  • only low-iodine treats and water can be used
  • the cat will become hyperthyroid if he stops eating the diet

Both I-131 and thyroid surgery offer a cure for hyperthyroidism. However, both have a low risk of too much normal tissue being destroyed and the cat developing “hypothyroidism” as a consequence. The “hypothyroid” cat does not produce enough thyroid hormone and must be supplemented with daily oral medication for the rest of his/her life.

Both I-131 and surgery run the risk of unmasking more advanced kidney disease. Unlike medication or diet which can be adjusted or stopped, I-131 and surgery are permanent. Before recommending I-131 or surgery, some practitioners will conduct a trial with methimazole to assess kidney function when the hyperthyroidism is managed. However, some clinicians will opt to treat with I-131 even in the face of advanced kidney disease – persistent hyperthyroidism will further damage the kidneys if left untreated (Reference 5).

Diagnosing and treating hyperthyroidism in cats can be challenging. The presence of other diseases can mask hyperthyroidism and interfere with testing.  I-131 is considered the gold standard for treating hyperthyroidism in cats. It does not carry the risks of surgery, avoids the side effects of methimazole and the difficulties of maintaining a strict prescription diet with a cat. Whichever treatment you choose, you have taken a step toward giving your hyperthyroid cat a healthier and longer life.

 

references

  1. Carney HC, Ward CR, Bailey SJ, et al. 2016 AAFP Guidelines for the Management of Feline Hyperthyroidism. Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery. 2016;18(5):400-416. doi:10.1177/1098612X16643252
  2. Geddes R, Aguiar J. Feline Comorbidities: Balancing hyperthyroidism and concurrent chronic kidney disease. Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery. 2022;24(7):641-650. doi:10.1177/1098612X221090390
  3. Kvitko-White, Heather. Recognizing and confirming feline hyperthyroidism. dvm360 March 2021 Volume 53, Feb 9, 2021. https://www.dvm360.com/view/recognizing-and-confirming-feline-hyperthyroidism (viewed 9/2023)
  4. Brooks, Wendy. Thyroid Treatment Using Radiotherapy for Cats. Veterinary Partner:VIN. Date Published: 01/01/2001
    Date Reviewed/Revised: 09/05/2023. https://veterinarypartner.vin.com/default.aspx?pid=19239&id=4951399 (viewed 9/2023)
  5. Vaughan, F. and Wackerbarth, D. “Methimazole Trials: What Are They Good For?”, https://www.felinehtc.com/documents/Methimazole-Trials.pdf (viewed 9/2023)

The Link Between the Environment and Cat Behavior

Posted on by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6
A cat enjoys the scents of a summer night from his window seat.

I remember visiting the zoo as a young child. Back then, the animals’ enclosures were not the large, landscaped areas that you see today. The animals were behind iron bars with a few hides to go into, water, and maybe a tree or two. It was not uncommon to see the tigers or lions pacing repetitively back and forth along the walls of their enclosures or the giraffes continually licking the chain link fences.

These repetitive behaviors are referred to as ARB’s, abnormal repetitive behaviors. In the past few decades, zoos have found that changing captive animals’ environments to allow more natural behaviors reduces ARB’s significantly. Expressing species-specific behaviors allows an animal to control and modify its environment, ensuring survival and reproductive success. Creating a den (safe place) is an example of how an animal controls and modifies its environment (Reference 1).

Environment and cat behavior

Many cats live predominately indoor lives. Our homes are quite different than the territory of a wild cat. The indoor cat often has little opportunity to engage in typical cat behaviors such as hunting and climbing trees. It is not surprising that some domestic cats indulge in ARB’s to reduce the stress of being unable to predict and control their environment.  Overgrooming, where a cat licks or scratches her fur so much that the area becomes inflamed and bald, is one of the more common ARB’s shown by domestic cats.

Of course, a good, solid medical workup may uncover a cause for overgrooming and itchiness – perhaps kitty has a food allergy or skin infection. But it is not uncommon for some of these cases to be “idiopathic”, meaning we don’t know what the cause is.

environment and cat behavior: ARB’s

The wound on this cat’s neck comes from repeated scratching.

A study published in 2018 (Reference 2) investigated the link between the environment and cat behavior. The study followed thirteen cats who had been diagnosed with Idiopathic Ulcerative Dermatitis (IUD).  IUD presents as a crusted, non-healing ulcer on the neck, head or between the shoulders. Medical therapy including surgical excision is rarely successful. The cat scratches at the wound frequently; the wound will heal if the cat cannot scratch it, say if she wears a collar or bandage. Once the collar or bandage is removed, the cat will scratch the area again and the wound reappears. (Reference 2)

 

The research team asked the owners of the 13 cats to institute the following environmental changes:

  • Leave closets open to allow cats to use them as a hideout
  • Free access to food and water (add a fountain if the cat prefers running water)
  • Free access to a garden or balcony/window – a cat door was recommended
  • Provide access to a secure area where each cat can sleep, eat, use the litter box without competing with other cats (some cats were separated from their house mates)
  • Regularly offer new toys to the cat
  • Stop interactions initiated by owner such as carrying the cat, petting the cat. Allow the cat to initiate the interaction.

As soon as environmental changes were set up, the ARB of scratching stopped within 2 days. All cats except one healed – for this cat, the owners were not able make the environmental changes. Oral medication was given to this kitty for two months but the neck wound did not heal. The other twelve cats did not receive medication.  The research team followed these cats for two years and no relapses were noted in that time.

The environmental remedies in this study aimed to give the cat control over her environment by allowing her to exercise typical “cat” behaviors.  These are in line with the AAFP* recommendations for a healthy feline environment (Reference 3):

  • Provide a safe place <> leave closets open to allow the cats to use them as a hideout
  • Provide multiple and separated key environmental resources<>secure area for eating, sleeping and using litter box
  • Provide opportunity for play and predatory behavior <> offering new toys to the cat
  • Provide positive, consistent and predictable human–cat social interaction <> emphasize interactions initiated by the cat
  • Provide an environment that respects the cat’s sense of smell <>  access to a garden/balcony/window exposes the cat to outdoor scents and smells

Although our cats are a domestic species and have lived alongside humans for over 10,000 years, life in our homes sometimes reduces their opportunity to express behaviors typical of their wild relations. The environment and cat behavior are intertwined.  Improving the cat’s environment to encourage species-specific behaviors can reduce a cat’s stress and, in some cases, cure disease.

Note: I don’t agree with free-feeding cats even in such a situation – I think it is better to meal feed and use feeding as a positive interaction with humans. Using food puzzles and tossing kibble for the cat to hunt down allows cats opportunities to engage in foraging and hunting behaviors.

* American Association of Feline Practitioners

references

  1. Joseph P. Garner, “Stereotypies and Other Abnormal Repetitive Behaviors: Potential Impact on Validity, Reliability, and Replicability of Scientific Outcomes”, ILAR Journal, Volume 46, Issue 2, 2005, Pages 106–117, https://doi.org/10.1093/ilar.46.2.106
  2. “From Feline Idiopathic Ulcerative Dermatitis to Feline Behavioral Ulcerative Dermatitis: Grooming Repetitive Behaviors Indicators of Poor Welfare in Cats”, Titeux Emmanuelle, Gilbert Caroline, Briand Amaury, Cochet-Faivre Noëlle. Front. Vet. Sci., 16 April 2018 Sec. Veterinary Dermatology and Allergy Volume 5 – 2018 | https://doi.org/10.3389/fvets.2018.00081
  3. Ellis SLH, Rodan I, Carney HC, et al. AAFP and ISFM Feline Environmental Needs Guidelines. Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery. 2013;15(3):219-230. doi:10.1177/1098612X13477537

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Food and Your Cat’s Mental Health

Posted on by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Eating is a positive experience for healthy animals. Two neurotransmitters released while eating are dopamine and serotonin. Dopamine is associated with feelings of reward and motivation; serotonin with feelings of happiness and calmness.  Thus, food is one of the ways we can induce a positive emotional state in a healthy cat.

Food and your cat’s mental health

Recent research points to two dopamine events when eating: the first when you actually eat the food and the second, when the food reaches your stomach. (Reference 1). On the other hand, rising serotonin levels act as an appetite suppressant, giving a feeling of satiety. (Reference 2)

The connection between food and your cat’s mental health provides us an opportunity to take advantage of the emotions triggered by dopamine and serotonin when eating.

Foods that calm

There are foods  that incorporate tryptophan, a precursor to serotonin. Royal Canin’s Calm diet  and Hill’s c/d Multicare Stress for cats  contain hydrolyzed milk protein and L-tryptophan to reduce your cat’s fearful behaviors in stressful situations or environments.  The caveat with these foods is that the cat must eat enough of the food to get the appropriate dose of tryptophan.

Cat using food puzzlefood and environmental enrichment

Engaging in foraging behavior can benefit cats with generalized or separation anxiety. (Reference 3)

  • Foraging can provide a cat that is vigilant, tense and easily aroused with an alternative outlet for her energy
  • Cats with separation anxiety will find foraging a rewarding activity that is not related to interacting with the owner.
  • Serotonin release during the foraging cycle promotes calm behavior.

Foraging Method 1 – Multiple Separate Feeding Stations

  • Divide your cat’s daily food ration into portions.
  • Place these in different places around the house.
  • Put some dishes up high or in boxes and closets for variety

Foraging Method 2 – Use of Food Puzzles

  • Cats have to use their paws to get the food
  • Vary in complexity and style

cats with carrier and treatsFood and your cat’s mental health: behavior modification

We can use the positive emotions triggered by eating to guide our cats’ behaviors.  The use of a stream of small food rewards will trigger dopamine release, which in turn gives the cat feelings of reward and motivation.  Food can be a powerful adjunct to some of the interventions used in veterinary behavioral care: (Reference 3)

  • counter conditioning
  • operant conditioning
  • differential reinforcement of alternate behaviors

These methods work best with foods that the individual cat finds particularly palatable and desirable.

counter conditioning and food

Counter conditioning refers to training a different response to a situation.  Consider the cat carrier that takes your cat to the vet.  Many cats have a fearful association with the carrier and the process of going into it.  The goal of counter conditioning here is to teach the cat that good things happen when he’s near the carrier.

We start with getting the cat accustomed to the carrier by just leaving it out in the room.  Once he is comfortable with the carrier left out, we can offer some treats close by the carrier and gradually work up to treats in the carrier.  Over time, the cat will associate good things with the carrier – we have used food (treats) to change the cat’s emotional state when near the carrier.

operant conditioning and food

With operant conditioning, an animal repeats behaviors that have good consequences and avoids ones that are not rewarding.  Say you ask your cat to “sit”. When he sits, you reward him with a treat (food) he likes. He will be more likely to sit next time in anticipation of getting his reward.

differential reinforcement of alternate behaviorS

Here you will be replacing an undesired behavior with one that is more appropriate to the situation.  Say your new kitten attacks and hangs on to your legs as you as come in the door or you have a “door-dashing” cat.  You could train (operant conditioning) your kitten/cat to jump up on a nearby shelf or table on cue for a  food reward when the door is opened.  (The cue can be spoken or you could jingle your keys.) The goal is to replace the attacking/door dashing behavior with sitting on the nearby piece of furniture.

Food makes our cats feel good. Neurotransmitters such as dopamine and serotonin promote positive emotions when eating.  This connection between food and your cat’s mental health provides you with opportunities to influence your cat’s behavior through diet, environment and training.

references

1. Cell Press. “Your brain rewards you twice per meal: When you eat and when food reaches your stomach.” ScienceDaily. ScienceDaily, 27 December 2018. <www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2018/12/181227111420.htm>.

2. Voigt JP, Fink H. Serotonin controlling feeding and satiety. Behav Brain Res. 2015 Jan 15;277:14-31. doi: 10.1016/j.bbr.2014.08.065. Epub 2014 Sep 16. PMID: 25217810.

3. Delgado M, Dantas LMS. Feeding Cats for Optimal Mental and Behavioral Well-Being. Vet Clin North Am Small Anim Pract. 2020 Sep;50(5):939-953. doi: 10.1016/j.cvsm.2020.05.003. Epub 2020 Jul 8. PMID: 32653265; PMCID: PMC7415653.

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The Behavior of Feeding – Why Separate Cats When Feeding

Posted on by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6
Gus eyes Athena’s dinner and prepares to move in.

Solitary hunters, cats will eat or cache their prey after a successful hunt. Mother cats will bring prey back to their kittens to teach them how to hunt and what to eat but cats typically DO NOT SHARE their prey. They will growl when eating to warn other cats off.

In photos taken on the “cat islands” of Japan (called neko shima), cats line up at dishes of food put out by the island residents. There are 11 islands in Japan that have more cats than people on them. There are not enough mice for the cats to eat so residents of the islands provide food for the cats.  Feeding times appear to go smoothly on the cat islands with the occasional spat between cats. The island residents do put out food in more than one location so a cat can always move to another feeding station if he gets into a fight over food. Contrast this with our picture of a wild cat, a solitary hunter, munching his mouse in solitude.  

Our indoor cats don’t have the option of leaving if they are the target of food aggression.  Although cats may appear to get along eating next to another cat or out of the same bowl, cat behavior experts recommend that we separate cats when feeding, preferably out of sight of other cats. (Reference 1)

Why separate cats when feeding?

  • Cats with more dominant personalities will nose smaller, more timid cats out of the food bowl.
  • Victim cats may gorge and eat their food quickly, leading to “scarf and barf”.
  • Victim cats may start to lose weight.
  • House-soiling issues can start if the “bully” decides the game should extend to resources other than the food bowl.

These behaviors can be subtle. The “thief “at first just sits quietly near the “target” cat and stares at her. The target may stop eating. There may be some fisticuffs as the target tries to keep eating.  Eventually the thief just noses the target out of  the bowl, and the target cat leaves.

Strategies to separate cats when feeding

Assign each cat his own food station out of sight of the other cats. If you are meal feeding, you can fill each station with a cat’s portion and call each cat to his station as you place them around the house. Collect the feeders in 15-30 minutes as the cats finish their meals.  If you like, you can offer the meals in food puzzles, one per cat.

Locations of feeding stations

You may be able to take advantage of your cat’s preferences when deciding where to locate her feeding station. Some cats like to be up high and can be fed on their cat tree or tops of shelving units.

Closets can also make good feeding stations. Cats who like to be up high can eat on the top shelf and may just need a step ladder, storage cubes that form a ladder, or a single pole cat tree to get up there. If you just need to keep the family dog out, a gadget called a “Door Buddy” can work.

Baby gates can be used to block off doors to closets or rooms to separate cats. Although an agile, determined cat can easily scale a baby gate, this is usually pretty difficult for a dog.

feeding stations

Microchip Feeders

If you are dealing with cats on different diets or cats that eat slowly or “graze”, microchip feeders such as the SureFeed Microchip Pet Feeder are worth the cost. These feeders will only open for the cat or cats they are programmed for.

Enclosures for Feeding

A “Meow Space” is a deluxe feeding enclosure. It is ventilated and has a locking pet door which can be accessed by microchip or collar tag.  Like a microchip feeder, the “Meow Space” will only open for the cat or cats it is programmed for.

A plastic pet carrier can make a great “kitty diner”. Each cat can eat in his own carrier. If one cat finishes before another, the gate can be closed until the slower eater is done. This also helps your cat become more comfortable with his/her carrier.

Tip: Make a carrier cover that will “camouflage” the carrier, matching your color scheme and decor.

not enough room to separate cats when feeding?

Consider feeding social groups together.  Cats who belong to the same social group prefer to spend time with each other and are often willing to share resources such as food and litter boxes.

How do you know if cats are affiliated? The following behaviors can help you identify the social groups in your home.

  • Sleeping the same room
  • Allogrooming (grooming each other)
  • Sleeping touching each other
  • Touching noses

Note who does what and with whom, then diagram the social groups in your house. You may be able to feed cats in a social group in the same area. It is still recommended for each cat to have a separate bowl, be spaced apart, and to meal feed the kitties.

Separating your cat from other animals while eating allows your cat to feed in the same way as a wild cat. Feeding alone helps avoid behaviors like gorging and vomiting which can affect a cat’s physical and mental health.  Although it can be a challenge to separate cats when feeding, attention to each cat’s preferences and identifying the social groups in your home can help you develop a feeding strategy.

references

1. Sadek,T. (chair) “Feline Feeding Programs:Addressing behavioral needs to improve feline health and wellbeing” Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery (2018) 20, 1049-1055

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The Behavior of Feeding – Why Meal Feed Your Cat

Posted on by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6
Leaving tasty kibble out all day is like a having a bowl of potato chips on the counter.

A wild cat’s day begins in the late afternoon. He is an opportunistic feeder, a generalist, who will eat anything from bugs to bunny rabbits. He may snack on a lizard, sunning in the late afternoon sun. As the shadows grow longer, he will go on the prowl, looking for the small rodents that make up most of his diet. If he is lucky enough to catch something, he will retire and dine al fresco, alone. He will then doze or nap a bit while his meal digests. If he is part of a cat colony, he may groom or play with the kittens, while their mothers hunt.

In a few hours, he’s off to hunt again and will keep on prowling, looking for prey. He is not above scavenging a meal from other animals’ leftovers or from human garbage. His stomach is small and he will eat a 6-10 meals as he hunts through the night. When the sun starts to rise, he will turn in for the day, sleeping, grooming and sunning.

The behavior of feeding – why meal feed your cat

Our indoor cats have chosen a different lifestyle.  They depend on us, their human caretakers, for their food. They may be fed in one location with other cats, once or twice a day or be free fed from a large bowl of kibble available 24/7 (Reference 1).

The Problem with The big bowl and free feeding

Imagine a big bowl of potato chips or crisps left on the counter.  You pick one or two as you go by.  It is very easy to continue snacking and before you know it, that bowl is getting empty.  In the same way, it is easy for a cat to eat too much of  palatable and caloric kibbles left out, nibbling a little at a time.

Free feeding with more than one cat in the home

  • Cats with more dominant personalities will nose smaller, more timid cats out of the food bowl.
  • Victim cats may gorge and eat their food quickly, leading to “scarf and barf”.
  • Victim cats may start to lose weight.
  • House-soiling issues can start if the “bully” decides the game should extend to resources other than the food bowl.

The behavior of feeding – what can we learn from wild cats?

  • Cats have evolved to eat multiple, small, low calorie meals every day.
  • Cats prefer to eat alone – without other cats around.
  • Cats spend most of their waking hours hunting and foraging for food.

the take-away for indoor cats

  • Meal feeding reflects the way cats naturally eat.
  • Cats need to be fed separately from other pets (cats, dogs) in the house.
  • Cats need to engage in hunting/foraging behavior.

Choosing to meal feed your cat

It does not need to take a lot of time and effort to meal feed your cat. Divide your cat’s daily allotment of food into 4-5 portions. Your cat will be happier – he will have more to look forward to and his food will be fresher, as smaller portions will be put out frequently instead of topping up the bowl.  Check out the Meal Planner below – mix and match the meals that work for you!

canned cat food meal feeding
Canned foods lend themselves to meal feeding.

Meal #1

If your cat enjoys wet food, offer a wet meal when you are home to pick up the dishes.  Choose an amount your cat can finish in 15 minutes or so.

 

Timed Puzzle Feeder
This Cat Mate feeder can accommodate a food puzzle.

Meal #2

Dry food can be placed in bowls or feeders around the house. You can change the locations of these daily if you like to keep your cat on his game.  Timed feeders can meter out the food while you are away.

Cats plays with featther toy1
Core workout – Zelda plays with feather toy!

Meal #3

Hunting practice: play with your cat with a fishing pole toy for a few minutes.  Make sure to end the game with a small snack.

Zelda has the treat in sight, ready to pounce.

Meal #4

Tossing treats or kibble: Zelda chases dental kibbles down the hallway and pounces on them as if they were grasshoppers. This can be a fun game with larger kibbles like those from dental foods, where 10-15 pieces of kibble are about 30 kcal.

cat with food puzzle
Marley works the Poker Box, a food puzzle.

Meal #5

Food puzzles offer foraging opportunities to cats. But be forewarned: most cats are lazy – they will choose food that they do not have to do anything for.  You have to meal feed for this to work – otherwise, the cat will just go and snack out of his bowl.

More About Food Puzzles

Most likely, you will need to “train” your cat to use a food puzzle. Once your cat learns one, she will pick up on others more quickly.  When your cat knows how to do several of these puzzles, you can rotate them to keep her interest. For more about the psychology of food puzzles and training your cat to use one, see  “Cats Eating From a Food Puzzle: Contrafreeloading?“

Choosing to meal feed your cat allows him to engage in more natural feeding behaviors.  It will be easier for you to regulate his intake which is better for his health and longevity.  With a little bit of creativity and using the Meal Planner, you should be able to meal feed your cat, whether she is a dry food addict or eats a combination of wet and dry foods.

references

  1. Sadek,T. (chair) “Feline Feeding Programs:Addressing behavioral needs to improve feline health and wellbeing” Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery (2018) 20, 1049-1055

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Choosing a Diet for Your Cat – Wet or Dry?

Posted on by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6
Daily Food Portion Cat
Gus looks at his daily food allotment. Treats count!

What should you feed your cat – wet food? dry food? a mixture?

A diet for your cat – wet or dry must be balanced and nutritious. Dry cat food is convenient and less costly than wet foods. It can be left out without as much concern for spoilage. You don’t have to be home to feed your cat. But will your cat drink enough water? How do wet and dry foods compare with regard to providing your cat enough protein and not too many calories?

Choosing a diet for your cat – wet or dry?

moisture

A wild cat gets most of his moisture from the prey he eats. He typically consumes the entire animal, including the fur and gut contents and eats the equivalent of 6-10 mice a day.

Wet cat foods typically contain 80% moisture by weight. Dry foods are closer to 10% by weight. Cats eating a dry diet must supplement their diet by drinking water. 

Let’s look at the moisture some typical foods would offer a 10 lb cat eating 200 kcal daily.

 

Food 1 (wet)

Food 2 (wet)

Food 3 (dry)

Food 4 (dry)

Moisture (%)

78

80

 12 12

Metabolizable Energy (kcal/kg)

 942 700 4342 3770
Cat’s weight (lbs)

10

10

 10 10
Amount of food daily (g)

212

285

 46 53
Moisture from food ( ml) 165 228 5.5 6.4
Moisture in food (ounces) 5.6 7.7 0.19 0.22

This table shows how much moisture (water) our cat will get by eating 200 kcal of each of these foods. The wet foods provide about 6-8 oz daily where the dry foods provide a fraction of that.

but my cat drinks plenty of water…

Cats should drink about 4 ounces of water per five pounds of lean body weight daily. Our 10 pound cat needs to drink about one cup of water per day. If he does not drink enough, he may become constipated or risk having urinary crystals. If he eats the wet diet, he will get most of this water in his food.

But, you say, my cat drinks plenty of water. She is at the water bowl frequently. Cats don’t scoop water up with their tongues, instead when the curled-back tip of the tongue touches the water surface, a thin column of liquid is drawn up into the mouth. That column of water is about 3/100 of a teaspoon.  A lot of lapping is needed to reach 1 cup of water daily.

If your cat’s stools tend to be hard or her skin around her shoulders doesn’t snap back quickly when you tent it, you may want to encourage her to drink more or add some canned food to her diet.

choosing a diet for your cat – wet or dry: protein

A diet for your cat -wet or dry should provide your cat with enough protein to maintain Lean Body Mass (LBM). 

If you compare foods on a dry matter basis (removing all the water), protein content can look similar, at 40-50%. Wet foods, however, often have a higher protein/energy ratio –  they deliver more protein per 100 kcal than dry cat foods. The carbohydrate needed to process the dry foods may be the culprit here – the amount of protein is diluted by the additional calories provided by the carbohydrate.

In this chart, you can see that our 10 lb cat will more than satisfy his LBM protein requirements with 200 kcal of Food 2; he will be close with Food 1. The two dry foods require  230-240 kcal to provide enough protein to satisfy the LBM . These additional calories could result in weight gain. (These calculations are done on an “as-fed” basis using the Atwater equation).

 

Food 1 (wet)

Food 2 (wet)

Food 3 (dry)

Food 4 (dry)
Metabolizable Energy(kcal/kg)

942

700

 4342 3770

Protein (g/100 kcal)

 10.6 15.7 9.7 10

Cat’s weight (lbs)

 10 10 10 10
Protein for LBM 23 23 23 23

Calories Needed to Satisfy LBM (kcal)

 216 146 237 230

a diet for your cat – wet or dry: calories

Dry cat foods tend to be more “calorie dense” than the canned foods. The dry foods in the table have over 4 x the amount of kilocalories per kg of food of the wet foods. Dry food is concentrated – a small amount has a lot of calories.  A bored cat can easily eat too much and put on weight. The water in the wet foods tends to fill our cats up and give them a feeling of satiety.

choosing a diet for your cat – wet or dry?

A lot boils down to your cat’s preferences. Both dry and wet diets provide balanced nutrition but wet foods provide your cat with

  • water
  • higher protein/energy
  • lower calorie meal plan

a compromise: wet and dry

If your cat will eat wet and dry, consider a combination feeding program.  Here is one where your cat gets two wet meals that are supplemented with tasty dry food in between in food puzzles, as training treats, or in a treat toss game.  The two wet meals can go a long way to providing your cat with moisture and protein to maintain LBM. 

  1. Breakfast:  wet meal
  2. Day Time: food puzzles or feeders with dry food
  3. Dinner: wet meal
  4. Bedtime Snack: Treat Time – treat toss or training ( sitting , targeting )

My cat refuses wet foods

Some cat prefer dry food. Why?

  • Food preferences are established when cats are kittens. They eat what their mother eats.
  • If the kittens do not eat wet foods at weaning and the first few months afterwards, they will often refuse to eat them later. 
  • This can be a problem when cats become older and wet food can help manage medical conditions, such as kidney disease.  (Reference 1)

The pet food industry works hard to make those kibbles appealing to cats.  Not only is there the texture or “mouth feel”, the kibbles are often sprayed with protein hydrolysates or “digest” to increase palatablity.  Soy sauce is an example of protein hydrolysates used to enhance the taste of foods for humans. (Reference 2)

for dry food addicts only…

  1. Make sure to hydrate your cat – try water from tuna, water used to poach chicken or fish (offer alone, add to the water bowl, or try frozen in an ice cube tray and added to the water bowl) (Reference 3)
  2. Try some of the high protein, low calorie (low fat, low carb) dry diets.
  3. Try moistening your cat’s kibble with low-sodium chicken broth.
  4. Try mixing some canned food with your cat’s dry.  Start with a small amount and increase if she accepts it.

 

references

  1. Zoran, Debra. “Feline Nutrition: Understanding How to Feed Cats for Obesity Prevention and Weight Management”, dvm360.com, 11/10/13
  2. Ahmet Yavuz Pekela, Serkan BarışMülazımoğlub and Nüket Acar(2020) “Taste preferences and diet palatability in cats,” Journal of Applied Animal Research, 48:1, 281-292, DOI:10.1080/09712119.2020.1786391
  3. Caney, S., Gunn-Moore, D.  Caring for a cat with lower urinary tract disease, Cat Professional 2011, www.catprofessional.com, p. 45

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Making Vet Visits Better for Your Cat (and You!)

Posted on by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Working at a cat hospital, I have become sensitized to my patients’ distress. Many cats are terrified coming to the veterinary clinic. The experience is not only stressful for the cat but it can be stressful for you, the cat owner. Perhaps you feel embarrassed when your cat misbehaves or maybe you just dread the ordeal of getting your cat into his carrier. These are a few of the reasons why we don’t see as many cats at a veterinary clinic as dogs, although cats outnumber dogs as pets.

The net result of this stress and anxiety is that you may delay medical care for your cat because getting to the vet is so stressful.

What can we do to reduce the fear and anxiety of the vet visit for us and our kitties?

This is the first of a series of posts about making vet visits better for your cat. We will start by looking at how your cat feels about the vet clinic.

making vet visits better for your cat (and you!)

from the feline perspective

You know something’s up – your carrier is out. You hide under the bed but your human pulls you out and proceeds to squeeze you into the dreaded box.

You swing along in the air and then are loaded into a larger box that moves and smells funny.

You finally stop moving and swing through the air some more and arrive at another house where you smell lots of other animals. Oh no, not this place again! You can smell other cats – most of these cats too are afraid. As you move through the fog of smells, you arrive in a small room with a metal table.

A strange human opens your carrier door and tries to coax you to come out – you’re not sure what is out there but now your carrier seems like a good place to stay.

Suddenly, your world tilts and you slide out of the carrier onto the cold, hard table.

You hiss your displeasure. Another strange human proceeds to look into your eyes, put a hard plastic thing in your ears, and presses a cold metal disc against your chest.

Then, the strange human pokes you with a needle and you are finally allowed to escape back into the dreaded carrier – at least, it has taken you back home before.

The veterinary visit can make the most mellow cat anxious.

Does your cat…

  • Turn into a frozen lump on the exam table?
  • Or does he become a Tasmanian devil, hissing and striking at the veterinary staff?
  • Or will he frantically eat the treats offered in an effort to soothe himself?

How can we ask our cats to accept handling and medical exams?

Making vet visits better for your cat (and you!)

Sedation is one way to relieve anxiety and fear. But sedation works better when your cat is used to being handled. (For more about sedation, see https://www.felinepurrspective.com/medication-before-your-cats-vet-visit/).

In this series of posts, we are going train our cats to accept the handling that goes along with the veterinary exam. We will break the vet visit down into parts and work on making your cat comfortable with each part. We will use a technique known as “clicker training” to communicate safety and familiarity to your cat.  Your cat voluntarily accepts handling in exchange for something he likes. In this way, your cat becomes an active participant in his health care.

THE VET VISIT IN PIECES

  1. Getting kitty into the cat carrier
  2. The car ride
  3. The waiting room
  4. The exam room/vet exam
  5. Other procedures
  6. Homeward bound

From getting your cat into her carrier to the return trip to home, training can help reduce situational anxiety by making handling and traveling positive, familiar experiences.

However, don’t expect your cat to go through his entire repertoire of behaviors in a distracting environment with strange people such as the veterinary clinic. Unless you train your cat in such an environment, he may behave as if he has never done any of these  things before. However, because he is used to being handled, appropriate handling should not elicit defensive behavior.

A frightened cat fighting for his life is very intimidating to handle. However, the past 2 decades has seen the advent of stress-free handling techniques designed to address the frightened cat. If you have concerns about how your cat is handled at the veterinary practice, consider taking your cat to a Cat Friendly practice, where staff is trained in feline handling techniques.

Making vet visits better for your cat is challenging, even if your cat is calm, relaxed and food motivated.  We will start next week with carrier training.

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More on Brushing Your Cat’s Teeth

Posted on by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6
Cat with Human toothbrush
Human toothbrushes are not designed for cats’ smaller mouths.

Good dental care for people centers on regular dental cleanings once or twice a year. This is supplemented by home dental care – twice daily brushing and daily (or more) flossing. Our cats should have periodic professional cleanings done under anesthesia but what about home dental care? How about brushing your cat’s teeth?

Brushing your cat’s teeth

The Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) has a list of accepted products for cats. On this list are several dental diets including the over-the-counter Hills Oral Care, a water additive, oral spray and oral gel made by HealthyMouth, in addition to Greenies treats. The list is a bit outdated with the most recent entries dated 2012. Nowhere are toothbrushes or toothpaste.

Having tried the diets, the water additive, and brushing teeth, I have found that hands-down brushing your cat’s teeth is the most effective. Tartar accumulates most frequently on the outside of the cat’s upper premolars and those are the teeth we can target.

The benefits? Brushing reduces the amount of bacteria in the mouth more effectively than water additives and sprays. Cats are prone to developing tooth resorption which is similar in some ways to human cavities. However, where filling cavities works in human teeth, these feline resorptive lesions just get bigger and bigger once they start and filling them does not work – they need to be extracted.

While we don’t really know why tooth resorption occurs in cats, bacteria is thought to play a major role. (“Microbiome analysis of feline odontoclastic resorptive lesions (FORL) and feline oral health”, Thomas et al., J Med Microbiol. 2021; 70(4): 001353.)

For dogs, VOHC recommends the PetSmile brand of toothpaste, that works by dissolving the biofilm that forms on the teeth using hydrogen peroxide.  The PetSmile website indicates that this toothpaste can be used for cats also.

Virbac makes the CET brand of dog and cat toothpastes.  CET toothpaste contains lactoperoxidase and is designed to boost a naturally occurring anti-bacterial process in the cat’s saliva.  Watanabe and colleagues measured bacterial counts on dogs’ teeth and found that simply applying the toothpaste to the teeth reduced bacteria, although not as much as brushing with the toothpaste. (J Vet Med Sci. 2016 Jul; 78(7): 1205–1208. “Inhibitory effect for proliferation of oral bacteria in dogs by tooth brushing and application of toothpaste”)

So, consider brushing your cat’s teeth. To learn more, check out the two-part video series, “Brushing Your Cat’s Teeth: Why and How” in the video gallery at www.felinepurrspective.com.  Start with Part 1 to find out which teeth you need to brush, what you need to do this, and a strategy to encourage your cat to accept the toothbrush.

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A Catio is a Safe Place Outdoors for Cats

Posted on by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

In the U.S., it has become common to keep cats solely indoors. Indoor cats live longer – they are not run over by cars, hunted by coyotes, or injured in cat fights.

However, there is a cost to this safety and security. Indoor cats have fewer opportunities to exercise and don’t receive the mental stimulation from hunting and exploring the outdoors.

Both cats and zoo animals are captives in the environments we provide for them. Like zoo animals, cats need enrichment to maintain their health and welfare.  A safe place outdoors can provide cats with enrichment from the scents, sounds and views of the outside world.

a catio is a safe place outdoors for cats

I lived in a townhome for 13 years. The common grounds in the complex were spacious and like a park.  I was able to walk my cats daily; I also built a small cat enclosure (footprint was 3′ by 6′) that the cats could access by a pet door in the sliding patio door.

I moved about a year ago to a larger, two story house and had plans for a grander cat enclosure.  A catio is a safe place outdoors for cats that is large enough for some humans to hang out in.  There is a deck on the back of my house which was not being used very much and seemed to be a purrfect place for a catio for me and the cats to hang out.

Due to finances and the desire to get an enclosure up quickly, I chose a pre-fabricated cat house.  The Aivutuvin-AIR52 is a frame structure made up of galvanized mesh panels.  The footprint is about 6′ by 10′. It has a peaked roof (height about 6′) and has a door for human access in the front.

I had assembled the smaller cat enclosure at my townhome myself.  This time, the size of the project was intimidating, so I hired a professional handyman to help with the installation.  This proved to be a good idea as assembling the panels that make up the sides, back and front were a 2-person job. 

The catio opened for use yesterday.  Here are some snapshots of the construction process.

The location: south-facing porch. A “sail” has been put up to offer some shade.

Pet Door in Window

An insert with a pet door is put in the window adjacent to the catio.

Catio construction

Construction phase: note the shelves for the cats to sit on and the swinging bridges.

Catio Completed Construction

Construction is complete.  A tarp will go over the rear half of the catio to provide more shade.

Cats in catio

The catio is open for business. The cats have successfully negotiated entering the enclosure using the pet door in the window insert.

Cat coming in pet door in window.

Time for a break and a snack.  Gus comes inside using the pet door in the window.

A catio is a safe place outdoors for cats.   I will still leash walk my cats daily, weather permitting, but the catio will allow them  to choose to go outside when they want to.  It is large enough for some deck furniture and I am looking forward to spending time outside on the porch with my cats.

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Cats and Scratching 3: First Aid for Unwanted Scratching

Posted on by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6
Cat scratching near stairs
A scratcher redirects this cat from scratching the stairs.

Sometimes, even after you have invested in several scratching posts, your cat will scratch somewhere you don’t want her to. What is going on?

Earlier we learned that cats scratch to maintain their claws, to stretch and to communicate with other cats by leaving a scent mark.  Scratchers need to be “deployed” where they will best satisfy these needs.

How to deal with unwanted scratching

  1. Redirect the cat to scratch on an “appropriate” surface.
  2. Respond to any scent messages.
  3. Use “aversives” to discourage “unwanted scratching”.
  4. Offer alternate marking options for your cat.
  5. Trim nails to minimize damage.

Redirecting unwanted scratching

This basically means we place a scratcher close to or at the place your cat is scratching. We will “sweeten” the deal by applying an “attractant” to the scratcher – catnip, silvervine, honeysuckle. We can also add some treats and reward kitty for using this scratching alternative.

Say your cat starts scratching your sofa. You notice a big orange cat outside the picture window where your sofa sits. Some things you may consider:

  • Put a cat tree over by the window to give your cat a vantage point and a place to mark by scratching.
  • You may want to move the sofa away from the window.
  • Reduce visual contact with the intruder – cling film on windows or prevent cats from coming into the yard to the window (fence rollers, motion-activated sprinkler)

Reply to any scent messages

You just bought a new sofa. Your cat may feel that the new sofa needs to be “broken in”.  A little scratching leaves a purrsonalized “greeting”. And then once Kitty scratches there, of course, he better “top off” that message regularly so that it is up-to-date.

Start with providing an acceptable scratching surface at or near the area of “unwanted” scratching. Use attractants as needed for your cat.

We need to let your cat know that this sofa is “safe” and “already marked”. We have a few options to achieve this.

  • Use a synthetic pheromone spray such as “Feliway” Classic or Comfort Zone Calming. These are synthetic versions of the secretions cats deposit by rubbing their cheeks against things. To avoid staining your sofa, we can spray a throw or blanket that we drape over the sofa. Initially, you will need to spray this daily.
  • Or – relocate the sofa close to an electrical outlet and use the “Feliway” Optimum diffuser. This novel blend of feline pheromones has been shown to reduce feline stress and unwanted scratching.
  • Or – you may use the blanket your cat sleeps on and drape that over the sofa. You will want to have a second blanket that he sleeps on so that you can swap them out daily at first.

“Aversives” – things most cats don’t like

  • Upside-down carpet runner: the spikes face up and are not comfortable to walk on! Place the upside-down runner where your cat may stand to scratch, say under the sofa that is getting scratched. Place a scratching post nearby on a “comfortable” surface.
  • Double-sided sticky tape (Sticky Paws is one brand). This works well on fabric and carpeted surfaces. It is applied to where your cat is scratching.
  • Aluminum foil can be wrapped around the furniture or placed on the floor.
  • Carpet runner or office chair mats (right-side up) may work if your cat is scratching at the carpets around doorways. There are also anti-scratch mats made for this purpose.
  • PLEASE avoid using things like garlic and essential oils to discourage scratching – these can be toxic to cats.

 

A Word about Punishment:

Spray bottles, SSScat spray deterrents, shock mats – these may seem effective but all run the risk of making your cat fearful and anxious. You are punishing the cat for an instinctual behavior – she is not doing anything wrong; she is just using a surface you don’t want her to.  It would be better to restrict her from the area than use punishment.

 Alternative Marking Options for your Cat

Cats scent mark using glands in their cheeks, lips and base of the tail. We think that these pheromones give cats a message of safety and security – this place is “marked”. There are self-grooming arches that cats can brush under and grooming combs that attach to wall corners, table legs and cabinet corners.  Your cat can mark these objects by rubbing her face, head and base of her tail in these areas.

In multi-cat homes, cats may scratch to establish their right-of-ways inside the home. Strategic placement of a few self-grooming stations may help reduce scratching by providing another way of marking. ( see T. DePorter and A. Elzerman, Common Feline Problem Behaviors: Destructive Scratching Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery (2019) 21, 235–243)

Minimize damage with nail trims

Train your cat to have her claws trimmed using positive reinforcement. You may need to trim claws every 4-6 weeks. Trimmed claws should not damage surfaces as much as untrimmed claws.

cats just want to have fun!

Cats will sometimes scratch to work out the “zoomies” or to get your attention. Scratching carpeted stairs often falls into this category!

If your cat enjoys scooting along stair risers:

Sisal pole at botton of stairs
Sisal pole at the bottom of stairs
  1.  Consider blocking the stairway with a tall pet gate or DIY barricade.
  2.  Turn a replacement sisal post on its side and put some ends on it heavy enough to keep it in place but low enough to give the “stair scratching experience”. Push it up against that bottom step, and let the fun begin. Don’t forget the catnip and treats!

Claws come with your cat. He will scratch to maintain his claws, stretch, and leave scent messages. To deal with unwanted scratching:

  1. direct him to an appropriate scratcher using catnip/silvervine and treats
  2. use pheromones
  3. use aversives as needed 
  4.  provide other ways to scent mark
  5.  trim his claws regularly. 

Avoid punishment – instead be a cat whisperer and try to communicate with your cat.

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