cats with carrier and treats

Cats love boxes and a carrier is just another box! However, your cat may have a love-hate relationship with her carrier – when the carrier comes out, she runs and hides under the bed. On the other hand, she may be relieved to enter it at the vet clinic at the end of her visit.

This post was originally published on February 12, 2023 as part of  the “Better Vet Visits” series.  This post has been updated and new material added.

Carrier Training for your cat


Why your cat may not like her carrier:


  • It only takes her to the vet
  • The carrier is not comfortable – maybe it too small, too big or too open like a cage?
  • The carrier is an unfamiliar object and does not smell like her – smell means a lot to cats who use odors to communicate.

One of the reasons to do carrier training is to try and give your cat some positive associations with her carrier. We want our cats to feel safe in their carriers. It should be a little piece of home that travels with them.

carrier training for your cat: the carrier


SIZE MATTERS


Your cat should be able to stand up and turn around in her carrier. If she can’t, it is time for a new carrier.  For tips on choosing and maintaining a carrier see  https://www.felinepurrspective.com/tips-for-choosing-a-cat-carrier/

SCENT MATTERS


Start by cleaning the carrier.

  • Hard, plastic carriers: clean with a mild detergent, rinse and wipe dry.
  • Fabric carriers: Launder the “slipcover” on the pad in the bottom. Wash the carrier with mild detergent (unscented if possible) and water, then rinse and let dry. If you are concerned about urine in a fabric carrier, be sure to use an enzymatic (biological) laundry detergent.

Most laundry detergents these days contain enzymes to break down protein and fat based stains in fabrics. However, there are detergents designed to clean materials such as wool and silk that do not have enzymes. Check the list of ingredients on your detergent to see if enzymes are listed.

Once the carrier is clean, place a towel, blanket, or cushion in it. Select something that your cat sleeps on. We want something with her scent on it in the carrier. Place the carrier in a quiet place where your cat hangs out.

carrier training for your cat: the basics


You might be able to simply leave the carrier out with your cat’s blanket and some catnip or treats in it. Your cat may go and take a nap in the carrier. Other things you can do to make the carrier a homey place is to play games around the carrier and offer your cat treats or food in the carrier.

If you have worked with your cat and trained him to relax on a mat or blanket, use this mat/blanket in the carrier (see Reference 1; also “Miso Relaxes on his Blanket” )

carrier training for your cat: what happens next


The next steps are coaxing your cat to enter the carrier, having her stay in the carrier, and moving the carrier.  Here Zelda the cat demonstrates this process.  If your cat already enters the carrier or you have a one piece carrier, start at step 3. Each of these steps make take several days or more to complete. Your cat must feel confident that she is not trapped, and will be able to come out soon.

Step 1 : Top off

  • Coax your cat into the carrier bottom with a trail of treats or target stick.

Step 2: Door off

  • Assemble the carrier leaving the door off.
  • Lure your cat in with a target stick or treats. 

Step 3: Door open

  • Put the door on the carrier.
  • With the door open, coax kitty into her carrier with treats or catnip.

Step 4: Close the door

  • Lure Kitty into her carrier and close the door.
  • After a minute or so, let her out.
  • Repeat, once or twice.

Step 5: Move the carrier

  • With your cat in the carrier, pick the carrier up and move it to another room.
  • When you arrive in the other room, open the door and let her out.

 

The next stage of the vet visit is the car ride.  Like carrier training, this is a multi-step process.  This will be the subject of the next post: “The Vet Visit: Help Your Cat Cope with the Stress of the Car Ride“.

Don’t have Time to Train?


Life often gets ahead of us. Suddenly, you may realize that your cat is scheduled for her dental cleaning next week! Don’t panic!

Even if you just have a week, bring out the carrier and let your cat get reaquainted with it. Be sure to clean it and put comfy bedding in it. Start with taking the top off (if you can) and offering yummy treats or food in the carrier.

Ask your vet about pre-visit medication. Bonqat is a feline friendly formulation of pregabalin. This can be offered to your cat an hour or so before she has to get into the carrier. It is a liquid and can be mixed in a small amount of food. Bonqat works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters that carry messages of anxiety and fear (Reference 2).

A few hours before you have to leave (or the night before if your cat is fasting and must be dropped off early), coax your cat into a room where there are no beds to crawl under or other hiding spaces – a bathroom or walk-in closet can work. Give her the pre-visit medication about an hour before putting her in her carrier.

If you have a two piece carrier, see if you can coax her into the bottom half, and “build” the carrier around her. If she is really anxious, cover her with a blanket or towel, place her in the carrier and put the top on.  Cover one piece carriers to make them dark and appealing.  Above all, stay calm and be patient during this process.

Carrier training for your cat requires time and patience. Ideally, your cat would know how to relax on a blanket or mat on cue before entering the carrier and being transported in the car.  But even if you are not able to complete such a program, leaving the carrier out where your cat can nap in it or play games around it, can help make the carrier a little piece of home.  Pre-visit medication such as Bonqat helps reduce fear and anxiety and can make traveling in the carrier easier for your cat.

references

  1. Bradshaw, J. and Ellis, S. The Trainable Cat, pp 167-171, ©2016 Basic Books, New York.
  2. Lamminen, T.; Korpivaara, M.; Aspegrén, J.; Palestrini, C.; Overall, K.L. Pregabalin Alleviates Anxiety and Fear in Cats during Transportation and Veterinary Visits—A Clinical Field Study. Animals 2023, 13, 371. https://doi.org/10.3390/ani13030371

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You are juggling your keys and a few bags of groceries as you approach your front door. You turn the key in the lock and open the door. In that instant, your cat slips out and melts into the darkness. Several scenarios run through your mind, each worse than the one before: she’ll get lost, hit by car or eaten by a coyote. How do you keep your cat from running outside?

KEEP YOUR CAT FROM RUNNING OUTSIDE


The outdoors holds many attractions for a cat: butterflies to chase, grass to munch on, and sights and sounds that call to a cat’s “inner hunter”. How do you keep your cat from running outside?

physical barriers


  • There are extra tall cat gates to block doorways that lead to that appealing front door. But these only work if humans keep them closed.
  • PetSafe markets an electronic barrier that beeps then gives a low static “correction” (shock) to contain both cats and dogs in certain areas of the home.
  • Although there have been several studies concluding that electronic fences do not reduce a cat’s quality of life, cats have been known to run through a barrier while chasing prey, then be reluctant to return through the electric field. Also, electronic fences won’t work if the power is out (References 1, 2).

 

teaching substitute behaviors


Teaching your cat to do something else when the door opens can help keep your cat from running outside.

  • Place a high cat tree near the doorway and train your cat to go to the cat tree when she hears the jingle of keys in the hallway. She can await your return and a reward! (see “Desensitizing Your Cat to the Sound of the Doorbell”)
  • A remote treat dispenser such as a PetCube can also help – when you are close to the door, you can cue your cat to go get a treat in a place away from the door.

TEACHING YOUR CAT TO MANAGE HIMSELF OUTSIDE THE HOME


We fear for our cats’ safety when they dash out the door. In rural and urban areas, predators such as coyotes abound. Busy roads can spell death to an unlucky cat. Spilled antifreeze is very toxic to cats resulting in kidney damage even if they are treated promptly. The shorter the time the loose cat spends on the run, the better.

Outdoor cats create a scent and auditory map of their home territory so that they can return to that place where it is safe to eat, eliminate and rest. There is some evidence that cats may be able to use the earth’s magnetic field to locate their home (Reference 3).

So, if possible, supervised walks near your home (or even in your apartment hallway if  it is permitted) can help your cat form this mental map. The walks can also satisfy your cat’s curiosity about what’s on the other side of the door. The harness and leash are a cue that she is going out and can help keep your cat from running outside.

An essential skill for any cat is recall – train your cat to come when called. This can be invaluable if the worst happens and he somehow gets away. He most likely will hide and not respond at first – give him some time to calm down and let his training kick in. Keep calling him or giving him his recall cue.

tux, an escape artist


One of the clinic cats at the vet clinic where I work is fond of the outdoors. After a few forays outside with one of our assistants, Tux saw that the front door opened frequently and that there was often enough time for him to slip through as a client struggled though the door with a cat carrier. This began to happen more frequently resulting in someone stopping by to tell the receptionists that there was a black and white cat sitting on the grass outside the clinic door!

A Plan for Tux

  • Restrict Tux from the lobby (and the front door) (physical barrier).
  • Allow Tux supervised walks on a leash and harness (train a substitute behavior).
  • Build an association with the harness and leash and the outdoors – the harness would be the cue to let Tux know it is walk time (No harness – no outdoors).
  • Use the side door to go on supervised walks on a harness and leash (reduce the association with the front door and the outside).

As the weeks have passed, Tux has begun to take charge. He comes willingly to be harnessed and aims for the side door. He enjoys the fresh air and grass. A few Temptations help guide him along. With regular walks, he is not monitoring the front door as much – if the interior doors to the lobby are open, he does not always make a beeline for them.

Physical barriers can help keep your cat safe. Electronic “fences” are available to contain your cat but are a bit controversial. These barriers are not foolproof – they depend on keeping the gate shut or the power being on. Giving your cat the experience of what is outside the front door can help satisfy her curiosity and help keep your cat from running outside. If your cat does slip by, she is familiar with the territory and should be able to make her way back.

references

  1. Kasbaoui N, Cooper J, Mills DS, Burman O. Effects of Long-Term Exposure to an Electronic Containment System on the Behaviour and Welfare of Domestic Cats. PLoS One. 2016 Sep 7;11(9):e0162073. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0162073. PMID: 27602572; PMCID: PMC5014424.
  2. Santos de Asis, L and Mills, D. Introducing a Controlled Outdoor Environment Impacts Positively in Cat Welfare and Owner Concerns: The Use of  a New Feline Welfare Assessment Tool. Front. Vet. Sci., 10 January 2021.  Sec. Animal Behavior and Welfare Volume 7 – 2020 | https://doi.org/10.3389/fvets.2020.599284
  3. Mitchell, Sandra C., Can Cats Find Their Way Home? petMD updated August 18, 2022, petMD.  https://www.petmd.com/cat/care/can-cats-find-their-way-home, viewed 7/2024

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Touch is important for many species. It is often part of a social interaction, cementing bonds between the members of a group. Primates (chimps, baboons,…) groom each other; dogs groom each other, birds preen each other as part of courtship or bonding. Domestic cats also groom  and rub against each other in greeting.

Consensual touch between individuals can communicate safety; such touch activates neurotransmitters such as oxytocin and ultimately dopamine. Oxytocin and dopamine are primarily associated with positive emotions, thus social touch is rewarding to the particpants (Reference 1).

Of course, not all touch is positive – there is aversive touch that causes pain and discomfort. And what usually goes for “affiliative” touch can sometimes be repulsive if the “touchee” does not like the “toucher” (Reference 1).

touch can relax your cat


Cats of the same social group greet each other by touching noses or rubbing against each other; some also twine their tails together while rubbing against each other. Some affiliated cats groom each other. These touches release pheromones which are thought to activate the “feel-good” neurotransmitters, oxytocin and dopamine (Reference 2). Touch can relax your cat.

Studies conducted at the California Institute of  Technology (CalTech) on mice found that there are specific neurons that respond to stroking.  Another type of neuron responded to pinching but not stroking (Reference 3).

What kind of touch can relax your cat


The studies with mice at CalTech included behavior experiments to confirm that the mice liked a gentle but firm stroking (Reference 3). Another study with humans found that both slow, firm stroking and deeper, oscillating compressions were “soothing” and “calming” (Reference 4).  The deeper compression touches were similar to those used in massage therapy, which is found to be calming and reduce anxiety.  Both types of touch can relax your cat.

giving your cat a massage


Your cat can enjoy the same benefits from a massage as a human: better circulation, less pain and muscle tension, less anxiety.  Here is a simple guide from the experts at Purina to massaging your cat.  This guide uses both the firm gentle stroking and the deeper pressure touches found to be pleasant, soothing, and calming.  This guide has the acronym CAT (Reference 5).

C is for circles

  • Start by stroking your cat gently from the neck to the base of the tail using an open, relaxed hand.
  • When the back muscles feel relaxed, start making circular movements with your fingertips on your cat’s shoulders.
  • When the shoulders relax, try making circular motions to your cat’s cheeks, chin, the top of his head and behind his ears. Use gentle, light pressure.

A is for Activate – Now is time for a deeper touch

  • This time around you won’t be using circular motion but more of opening and shutting your palm while pressing lightly with open fingers along the cat’s spine.
  • You want to feel the deeper tissue without just moving the skin.
  • Try some gentle flexing of your cat’s toes, legs and knees if she’ll have it.

T is for tapping

  • Use soft taps from fingers of each hand.
  • This is meant to stimulate the cat’s muscles and improve circulation.
  • I skip this step as I am massaging my cats more for relaxation than anything else.

Tips for a Successful Massage

  • Lure your cat onto a cushion or soft blanket – allow her to choose whether or not to participate.
  • Talk to your cat during the massage: tell her what you are going to do and let her know when your are done.
  • It is handy to have a marker, a word (“good”) or other signal that marks that your cat is doing what she is supposed to do and will get a reward (food, head rubs…)
  • Watch your cat’s body language – if she isn’t happy, say, with having her hind end touched, stop and move to an area she does like.

 

Be sure to follow the CAT friendly handling guidelines: see  “Touch Not the Cat

 touch can relax your cat – teaching relaxation


In The Trainable Cat, Sarah Ellis lists teaching your cat to relax as one of the nine key skills that form the foundation of training cats. Her method consists of the following steps:

  1. Select a comfortable blanket for your cat.
  2. Lure your cat to step on the blanket with a tasty food treat.
  3. Reward your cat for placing a paw on the blanket; work up to having all 4 paws on the blanket.
  4. Once your cat is comfortable with all four feet on the blanket, start working on luring him to a “down” position by placing a morsel of food just in front of his chin, encouraging him to change his posture. Work up to your cat laying down on the mat.
  5. Mix up the food rewards with praise, such as head and chin rubs.

Dr. Ellis recommends using head and chin rubs, in addition to food rewards.  What if we take advantage of a soothing, calming massage while teaching our cat to relax?  I found that adding massage (just the “C” and “A” ) to the session on the blanket encouraged my cats to lie down and relax.

Does your cat not like to be touched?


Consider using a “touch stick” to get her used to predictable, gentle human touch. A touch stick has a soft teardrop of felt on the end. The stick gives cats who are afraid or mistrustful of human hands a chance to experience and enjoy gentle touch. As the cat becomes more comfortable with your hands being close, you can move your hand gradually up the stick, until you are able to stroke her. Make sure to give your cat choice in the encounter and let her decide when to approach (see Reference 6).

 

The right kind of touch can relax your cat, making her feel safe and secure. Being able to relax on a blanket or cushion can be useful for vet visits, grooming  and set the mood for a training session.

references

  1. Ellingsen Dan-Mikael , Leknes Siri , Løseth Guro , Wessberg Johan , Olausson Håkan. The Neurobiology Shaping Affective Touch: Expectation, Motivation, and Meaning in the Multisensory Context. Frontiers in Psychology, Vol. 6, 2016, http://10.3389/fpsyg.2015.01986
  2. Michael Gliksberg, Gil Levkowitz, Smells Familiar: Pheromone-Induced Neurotransmitter Switching Mediates Social Discrimination, Neuron,Volume 95, Issue 6, 2017, Pages 1229-1231, ISSN 0896-6273,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.neuron.2017.08.044.
  3. Vrontou, S., Wong, A., Rau, K. et al. Genetic identification of C fibres that detect massage-like stroking of hairy skin in vivo. Nature 493, 669–673 (2013). https://doi.org/10.1038/nature11810
  4. Leah J. Elias, Ishmail Abdus-Saboor, Bridging skin, brain, and behavior to understand pleasurable social touch,Current Opinion inNeurobiology,
    Volume 73, 2022, 102527,ISSN 0959-4388, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.conb.2022.102527.
  5. Purina.co.uk, How to Massage Your Cat, Daily Care for Cats, https://www.purina.co.uk/articles/cats/health/daily-care/cat-massage, viewed 6/2024.
  6. Bradshaw, J. and Ellis, S. The Trainable Cat, pp 78-82, ©2016 Basic Books, New York.
  7. Seattle Humane Society, Introducing the Touch Stick, January 31, 2020, https://www.seattlehumane.org/2020/01/31/introducing-the-touch-stick/, Viewed 6/2024.

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Whether you are relocating or just visiting extended family, flying with your cat requires planning and preparation.

flying with your cat


Air travel is stressful for us but imagine how stressful it must seem to a cat – he must be in his carrier for an extended period of time, he doesn’t know what is happening or when it will end.  Here are some things to think about.

Is my cat fit to fly?


When considering flying with your cat, take into account your cat’s mental, emotional and physical health. Air travel may not be the best option for

  • geriatric cats with multiple medical conditions
  • cats suffering from anxiety-related disorders such as Feline Idiopathic Cystitis
  • cats with asthma or chronic bronchitis

Discuss your travel plans with your veterinarian. He or she can help you assess the risks of flying with your cat.

getting ready to fly


Health Certificate

Airlines require a health certificate for domestic and international travel (Reference 2)

  • In the U. S., a veterinarian must be USDA accredited to issue a health certificate.
  • The veterinarian examines the cat, verifies the animal’s vaccination status, and states that the cat is free of any infectious or contagious diseases.
  • A health certificate is issued within 10 days of the date of travel.

choosing an airline


Do your research and choose an airline that has a well-established pet program.  In the U.S., the Federal Aviation Administration allows individual airlines to decide whether your cat travels in the passenger cabin or in the cargo area.

Airlines can also restrict which cat breeds they will accept to fly. Check with the airline you plan to use. Restricted breeds may include Scottish Folds and Burmese in addition to brachycephalic (snub-nosed) cats such as persians, himalayans and exotic shorthairs (Reference 3).

cabin or cargo?


Some air carriers will offer you a choice of having your cat with you in the cabin or in the cargo area. In the cabin, your cat will be with you and you can keep on eye on her during the flight. However, most airlines require that the cat remain in the carrier throughout the flight. Her carrier must be able to fit under the airline seat – carriers must be about 18”x11”x11”.  Again, this depends on the airline – some have smaller maximum sizes. Typically, the flexible fabric carriers are the ones that will fit.

If an airline does allow you to bring your pet into the cabin, your cat is considered to be carry-on baggage and you must follow all carry on baggage rules, including the TSA checkpoint.

While the cargo area itself is pressurized and air-conditioned, temperatures in holding areas can reach unsafe temperatures for animals confined in plastic kennels on hot summer days. Pets can only fly cargo if temperatures in the holding areas are between 45-85 degrees. Outside this range and pets will be rescheduled (Reference 3).

Certain cities may be on a no-fly list for pets during the summer months due to the heat.

The pros of cargo flight:

  • The carrier can be larger for cargo flight, ideally large enough for the cat to stand up and turn around. A rigid carrier with ventilation on at least 3 sides and a rigid metal door may be used (Reference 1).
  • For some cats, flying cargo may be a better choice as the cargo hold is away from the noise and activity of the cabin.

food, water, litter boxes


  • In cargo, airlines may require that you attach a bag of food to the top of the carrier or have food in the carrier. Most carriers have bowls that attach to the metal door of the carrier. In the cabin, you can pack some snacks for your cat.
  • Whether in the cabin or cargo area, your cat will need access to water during the flight. Many carriers come with a bowl – you can freeze water in the bowl and attach just before putting your cat in the carrier. As the ice melts, your cat has water (Reference 1)
  • A travel carrier will not have room for a litter box. Use an absorbent pad with a gripping surface on the bottom (Reference 1). You can top this with a rectangle of fleece – liquid waste can pass through this to the absorbent pad below.

US flights – TSA checkpoints (Reference 4)


If you are flying with your cat in the cabin, you will have to pass through a TSA checkpoint. Carry-on baggage must pass through an x-ray system. Your cat will have to come out of the carrier and walk or be carried through the security checkpoint with you as her carrier goes through the x-ray tunnel.

If you’re concerned that your cat will get away from you, request that a TSA officer screen the cat in a private screening room. You and your cat (in her carrier) will be taken to a room to be screened.

TSA routinely swabs the hands of pet owners to test for traces of explosives.

 

Other travel options


Does all this sound overly complicated?  There are services that will arrange transporting your cat – these services may use air and/or ground transport. Although costly, these services take care of all the arrangements, and keep track of when health certificates and other paperwork need to be filed. 

There is even an airline where the only “pawsengers” are cats and dogs! See https://petairways.com/

Should my cat have medication?


Most cats will benefit from an anxiolytic medication or supplement in the days leading up to the flight, the flight itself and the first few days in the new location. The medications used to reduce anxiety at the veterinary clinic can be used for flight anxiety. Talk to your vet; here is a link for more information about medication.

The AVMA does not recommend sedating or tranquilizing animals for air travel due to the risk of heart and respiratory problems at flight altitudes. Be sure to do a trial with your medication – your cat must be alert and able to balance or she may not be allowed to fly.

pre-flight preparation


  • Carrier training: Your cat will travel more easily if she is familiar and comfortable with her carrier. Allow several weeks if this is a first trip and a new carrier; the seasoned cat traveler may benefit from a review! See carrier training
  • Harness Training: If you are flying with your cat, having a leash and harness on your cat gives you some extra security during flight layovers, customs checks, or taking a break when driving to or from the airport. You can have an “extra hand” while changing soiled pads in the carrier or allowing your cat to stretch her legs.

    cat on leash
    Zelda walking indoors on her leash.

Arrival


Congratulations, you have reached your destination and the trip is over! But your job is not done – you need to settle your cat into her new location.

  • It is best to start with confining your cat to a room with all her resources. When she indicates that she wants to check out the world beyond her room, harness her up and take her for a tour of the new place. Watch her body language and allow her to return to her room if she wants (see Moving With Your Cat).
  • f you are traveling with multiple cats, let them get reacquainted. Don’t try to rush things – go slowly and give them time (See Intoducing Cats).

Flying with your cat is an adventure! Research your airline and talk to your vet about whether your cat is “fit to fly” and getting a health certificate.  Prepare your cat by training her to her carrier and to a harness and leash.  If you opt to do anti-anxiety medication or supplements, try them out before you leave.  Bon voyage!

references

  1. Jahn K, DePorter T. Feline stress management during air travel: a multimodal approach. Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery. 2023;25(1). doi:10.1177/1098612X221145521
  2. Travel with a Pet. USDA Animal and Plant Health Service.  https://www.aphis.usda.gov/pet-travel. Modified: March 29, 2024.Viewed 6/2024.
  3. American Airlines: Travel information/Special Assistance/pets. https://www.aa.com/i18n/travel-info/special-assistance/pets.jsp viewed 6/2024.
  4. TSA tips on traveling with pets through a security checkpoint at Dulles International Airport. Transportation Security Administration. Local Press Release. Friday, February 24, 2023. Viewed 6/2024.

 

“Look at Me” can often be done with a chin rub and slow eye blinks.

When behavior problems arise, your vet may recommend drug therapy and environmental changes for your cat. These interventions work best when coordinated with a behavior modification plan.

What is behavior modification? What does behavior modification for cats involve?

Behavior modification for cats – more than just training and medication


Behavior modification is a type of behavior therapy. It has its roots in the work of B. F. Skinner in the 1930’s. Skinner was psychologist who believed behavior is a response to an organism’s environment and is not a consequence of mental states (beliefs, memories, desires, plans) (Reference 1).

Skinner came up with the theory of operant conditioning. In operant conditioning, reinforcement and punishment are used to encourage or discourage behaviors (Reference 2).

Reinforce the Behavior – Make It Happen Again!

Add Something “Good” Take Away Something “Bad”
If you reward your cat for sitting with his favorite treat, he is more likely to sit the next time you ask. If you stop trimming your cat’s nails every time she growls or hisses, you are reinforcing her behavior of hissing and growling at nail trims by “removing” the unpleasant nail trim.

Punish the Behavior – Make It Stop Happening

Add Something “Unpleasant” Take Away Something “Good”
If you spray your cat with water when she jumps on the counter, she may be less likely to jump up on the counter. Your cat claws at your hand for a treat. If you put the treat behind your back, the cat learns that the treat goes away when she swats at your hand.

Operant conditioning forms the basis of many training methods.  It appears to be pretty straight-forward: can we just reward the cat for using the litter box and spray her with water if she doesn’t? 

Problem behaviors involve more than just a stimulus and a conditioned response.  Operant conditioning  does not take into account the emotional state of an animal. It may be difficult to positively reinforce or punish an animal that is fearful.

To modify or change problem behaviors, the animal’s emotional state must be addressed. Teaching a cat or dog a substitute behavior for the undesired behavior or medicating him does not teach him how to respond to other stressful situations in his life.

Christine Calder, a member the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists, describes a five step process in working with problem behaviors in dogs (Reference 3).

  1.  Avoid all the things that cause the behavior.
  2. Open the lines of the communication – learn body language; stop punishment.
  3. Build a toolbox of known behaviors such as voluntary eye contact, touch, or a chin rest.
  4. Teach the animal to relax.
  5. Systematic desensitization and Counter Conditioning (to what triggers the behavior).

 Behavior modification for cats can follow this five-step plan.

You may have gotten a new dog or your young nephew comes to stay with you.  Your cat finds these new additions terrifying so she hides under the bed to be safe.  She does not use her litter box because she is afraid the dog or the child will be there. You try to adapt the environment to accommodate your cat and the newcomers but your cat remains fearful. 

Behavior Modification for Cats- More Than Just Training and Medication


  1. Avoid Triggers: We offer the kitty the sanctuary of a room or place in the house off-limits to the dog or child. This area has all the cat’s resources: litter box, cat tree, food and water.
  2. Establishing communication: Spend time with your cat, coaxing her to come to you; brush or pet her if she likes it. Learn her body language so that you know when she is done interacting (see “How to interact with your cat” ). Have your nephew also learn cat body language. Stop punishment: no spraying with water bottles; speak to your cat quietly with a pleasant tone.
  3. Toolbox of known behaviors: For a cat, these may be targeting on your finger or a stick, and learning to pay attention to you through eye contact.
  4. Teach the cat to relax: A cat who is relaxed is calm. She is able to devote more of her energy to learn how to cope with new situations. When the cat can relax on cue, she is able to choose a calm state. We can work up to asking for calm behavior when the dog or child is nearby.
  5. Desensitization: In this case, we introduce the cat to the dog or child in a safe situation. The dog or child is separated from the cat (use a barricade as needed) and the cat can come or go as she pleases. Gradually the distance between the cat and the dog or child is decreased.
  6. Counter-Conditioning: Previously, the cat associated the dog or child with being anxious or fearful. If she can be calm when dog  is on the other side of the barricade, we can start to form some new associations using high-value treats or other things the cat likes, such as being brushed.  With supervision, your nephew may be able offer your cat treats or brush her.

Behavior modification for cats is more than just substituting a desirable behavior in place of a problem behavior.  For the intervention to work, the emotional state of the cat has to be considered.  We need to give the cat a break from the stressful situation, then establish communication with cat.  We need the cat to trust us and look to us for guidance. Teaching the cat to relax and getting accustomed to what triggered the behavior are the final steps of the behavior modification plan.  The services of a cat behavior professional can be helpful in these situations.

references

  1. B.F. Skinner (1904-1990) Advocacy of Behaviorism and its Application to Psychology and Life
    Operant Conditioning and the Law of Effect.  https://psychology.fas.harvard.edu/people/b-f-skinner Viewed 5/2024.
  2. Cherry, Kendra. What is Operant Conditioning? February 24, 2023. https://www.verywellmind.com/operant-conditioning-a2-2794863  Viewed 5/2024.
  3. Calder, Christine D. Behavior Modification for Dogs. Behavior Bytes. December 28, 2022. https://cattledogpublishing.com/blog/behavior-modification-for-dogs/ Viewed 5/2024.

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Eating is a positive experience for healthy animals. Two neurotransmitters released while eating are dopamine and serotonin. Dopamine is associated with feelings of reward and motivation; serotonin with feelings of happiness and calmness.  Thus, food is one of the ways we can induce a positive emotional state in a healthy cat.

Food and your cat’s mental health


Recent research points to two dopamine events when eating: the first when you actually eat the food and the second, when the food reaches your stomach. (Reference 1). On the other hand, rising serotonin levels act as an appetite suppressant, giving a feeling of satiety. (Reference 2)

The connection between food and your cat’s mental health provides us an opportunity to take advantage of the emotions triggered by dopamine and serotonin when eating.

Foods that calm


There are foods  that incorporate tryptophan, a precursor to serotonin. Royal Canin’s Calm diet  and Hill’s c/d Multicare Stress for cats  contain hydrolyzed milk protein and L-tryptophan to reduce your cat’s fearful behaviors in stressful situations or environments.  The caveat with these foods is that the cat must eat enough of the food to get the appropriate dose of tryptophan.

Cat using food puzzlefood and environmental enrichment


Engaging in foraging behavior can benefit cats with generalized or separation anxiety. (Reference 3)

  • Foraging can provide a cat that is vigilant, tense and easily aroused with an alternative outlet for her energy
  • Cats with separation anxiety will find foraging a rewarding activity that is not related to interacting with the owner.
  • Serotonin release during the foraging cycle promotes calm behavior.

Foraging Method 1 – Multiple Separate Feeding Stations

  • Divide your cat’s daily food ration into portions.
  • Place these in different places around the house.
  • Put some dishes up high or in boxes and closets for variety

Foraging Method 2 – Use of Food Puzzles

  • Cats have to use their paws to get the food
  • Vary in complexity and style

cats with carrier and treatsFood and your cat’s mental health: behavior modification


We can use the positive emotions triggered by eating to guide our cats’ behaviors.  The use of a stream of small food rewards will trigger dopamine release, which in turn gives the cat feelings of reward and motivation.  Food can be a powerful adjunct to some of the interventions used in veterinary behavioral care: (Reference 3)

  • counter conditioning
  • operant conditioning
  • differential reinforcement of alternate behaviors

These methods work best with foods that the individual cat finds particularly palatable and desirable.

counter conditioning and food


Counter conditioning refers to training a different response to a situation.  Consider the cat carrier that takes your cat to the vet.  Many cats have a fearful association with the carrier and the process of going into it.  The goal of counter conditioning here is to teach the cat that good things happen when he’s near the carrier.

We start with getting the cat accustomed to the carrier by just leaving it out in the room.  Once he is comfortable with the carrier left out, we can offer some treats close by the carrier and gradually work up to treats in the carrier.  Over time, the cat will associate good things with the carrier – we have used food (treats) to change the cat’s emotional state when near the carrier.

operant conditioning and food


With operant conditioning, an animal repeats behaviors that have good consequences and avoids ones that are not rewarding.  Say you ask your cat to “sit”. When he sits, you reward him with a treat (food) he likes. He will be more likely to sit next time in anticipation of getting his reward.

differential reinforcement of alternate behaviorS


Here you will be replacing an undesired behavior with one that is more appropriate to the situation.  Say your new kitten attacks and hangs on to your legs as you as come in the door or you have a “door-dashing” cat.  You could train (operant conditioning) your kitten/cat to jump up on a nearby shelf or table on cue for a  food reward when the door is opened.  (The cue can be spoken or you could jingle your keys.) The goal is to replace the attacking/door dashing behavior with sitting on the nearby piece of furniture.

Food makes our cats feel good. Neurotransmitters such as dopamine and serotonin promote positive emotions when eating.  This connection between food and your cat’s mental health provides you with opportunities to influence your cat’s behavior through diet, environment and training.

references

1. Cell Press. “Your brain rewards you twice per meal: When you eat and when food reaches your stomach.” ScienceDaily. ScienceDaily, 27 December 2018. <www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2018/12/181227111420.htm>.

2. Voigt JP, Fink H. Serotonin controlling feeding and satiety. Behav Brain Res. 2015 Jan 15;277:14-31. doi: 10.1016/j.bbr.2014.08.065. Epub 2014 Sep 16. PMID: 25217810.

3. Delgado M, Dantas LMS. Feeding Cats for Optimal Mental and Behavioral Well-Being. Vet Clin North Am Small Anim Pract. 2020 Sep;50(5):939-953. doi: 10.1016/j.cvsm.2020.05.003. Epub 2020 Jul 8. PMID: 32653265; PMCID: PMC7415653.

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A safe place for a cat when visitors come. This cat can CHOOSE to go higher or to another room if he wants to avoid strangers.

The doorbell rings and your cat runs and hides under the bed. You answer the door and your friend comes in. After some small talk, she says “By the way, how is Fluffy?” You explain that Fluffy is fine and is hiding – she just isn’t a very friendly cat.

The cat afraid of strangers may freeze or feel she has to protect herself with her claws and teeth during her veterinary exam.  Medication and training help but these will work better if your cat has some ongoing positive or at least neutral experiences with strangers.

Socialization for the cat afraid of strangers


Kittens handled gently and appropriately by a variety of humans when they are 2-7 weeks old (the sensitive period) quickly learn to accept people and enjoy being with them.

That is fine and good you say, but my cat is older now and I don’t have a time machine. It is true that we can’t have the same impact on an older cat as a kitten.  However,  we can still provide the older cat positive, predictable experiences with humans in and outside the cat’s household.

Ways to Socialize the cat afraid of strangers


Safe Places
Consider having some high perches or maybe a cat tree in your living room. Cats are curious folk and want to satisfy their curiosity if they can do it safely. A high perch or cat tree allows a cat to CHOOSE to interact or not.

CAT guidelines – Rules for Humans!
If a cat anticipates that a human will treat her in a positive and predictable way, she will be more likely to interact with that person. The CAT human-cat interaction guidelines  developed at the Battersea Dogs and Cats Home, aim to make cats more comfortable when interacting with us and are easy follow.

Point out these guidelines to guests and ask that they follow them. The video version may be more appealing to children. After a few experiences of visitors seemingly ignoring your cat, she may start to show up when strangers come over.

Desensitizing Your Cat to the Sound of the Doorbell
Doorbells can be noisy and startling.  After all, doorbells are designed to alert us to deliveries or the arrival of visitors.

  • Record the doorbell sound on your phone.
  • Lure your cat to her high perch or cat tree in the livingroom.
  • Play the doorbell sound at a very low volume and offer her a high value treat.
  • Lure her down with target stick or treat. Repeat.

Gradually increase the volume of the doorbell sound over time. The doorbell will still be an unexpected noise but now has a positive association with it. You can also use the doorbell sound to cue your cat to go to her safe place (very useful if you have a door-dashing cat).

The Calm Before The Storm

For big holiday gatherings, you may also want to consider giving the cat afraid of strangers a supplement such as Zylkene or Anxitane a few days before the big event. These non-prescription supplements can make your kitty feel calmer when lots of unfamiliar humans are around.

Regular veterinary care is an essential part of a long and pain-free life for your cat. Regular visits can head off problems and spread veterinary costs out over time. Desensitizing your cat to strangers can help reduce his fear and anxiety at the vet clinic, making it easier to take him to the vet.

If you have concerns about how your cat is handled at the veterinary practice, consider taking your cat to a Cat Friendly practice, where staff is trained in feline handling techniques.

This is the final post in the “Better Vet Visits for Your Cat” series. I hope you try some of the techniques suggested in these posts. Remember to break things up in simple steps that your cat can understand and master. And, always try to see things from the “feline purrspective”.

 

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Pilling a Cat with Pet Piller
This cat knows how to take medication from a pet piller.

Many cats are terrified coming to the veterinary clinic. Some freeze in fear while others fight for their lives.  Calming medications given before the vet visit can reduce your cat’s anxiety!

Your vet has prescribed calming medication for your cat. So, what’s next?

How to Give Your Cat a Bitter Pill


Calming medications such as gabapentin and trazadone are bitter.  How do you give your cat a bitter pill?

Giving Medication in Food
Pros: convenient for the caregiver
Cons: If you give your cat a bitter pill in her food, she may refuse to eat that food in the future. Use something other than your cat’s regular diet, say, tuna fish.
Cons: Your cat needs to eat all the food to get her full dose of medication. Use as small an amount as possible of strongly flavored food to deliver the medication.

Tip: “Hunger is the best sauce” according to Sancho Panza’s wife, Teresa, in the novel Don Quixote. If your kitty is hungry, she will be more likely to eat the food containing the medication. Fast your cat overnight or pick up her food 2-3 hours before offering the medication in food.

Pilling by hand
If your cat accepts being “pilled”, coat the capsule or tablet in some butter or a pill treat, and slip it down kitty’s throat. Video Link.

Pros: You will know that your cat has gotten the medication
Cons: No one likes having something shoved down his throat. Your cat may gag and spit out the tablet.
Cons: It may be hard to repeat the dose if your cat decides to hide.

Tip: Reward your cat with some tuna juice or a tuna paste treat after she swallows the pill.  This will also help the tablet or capsule go down.

Other Ways to Give Your Cat a Bitter Pill


Make your cat a partner in his health care. Let’s reward him with something of value for taking the medication. Take a few minutes and think about what your cat really likes.  Is there a particular treat he likes – liverwurst, cheese, tuna or chicken paste? Catnip? Grooming session?

Do some “pill training” with the following methods before you try giving the medication. You can use hard treats or kibble as “fake pills”.  Start 3-4 days before you have to give the medication. This way you can practice your technique without wasting the prescription medication or running the risk of your cat biting into the bitter pill.

Introducing a pill into a stream of treats

This technique works best if the tablets are small and the cat is hungry. With larger tablets, you run the risk that the cat will bite into the bitter pill.

  • Offer your cat several treats.
  • Then offer a “fake” pill (a treat in a “pill treat”, cheese, liverwurst – something you can mold around the pill).
  • Immediately present more treats as your cat finishes eating the “fake” pill.
  • Video Link

Using a Pet Piller

Contercondition Pet Piller
Niki enjoys some chicken baby food on a pet piller.

You can use a “pet piller” to give the capsule or tablet. A pet piller is a tube with a plunger and a soft tip. The pill fits into the tip.

To use a “piller”, it is best to practice first with treats. If your cat likes tuna or chicken paste, start by offering your cat the paste on the piller and letting him lick it off. This way he associates swallowing with piller.

Work up to offering a “fake” pill in the piller after your cat has licked off the paste. You want to ease the “fake pill” into the side of mouth onto the “wave” (back) of the tongue. Avoid cramming the piller down the cat’s throat and making him gag. Follow with more paste on the piller to help your cat swallow the pill.

It may take a few trials for your cat to learn to use this gadget. Once he does, he will voluntarily swallow the pill in anticipation of getting more treats. This method works well for a variety of sizes of tablets and capsules. Video Link.

Using a Squeeze-Up Treat

If your cat likes the tubes of paste (Churu, Delectable) that you can squeeze up into her mouth, you can try to give small capsules or tablets using squeeze-up treats. You will want to cut the tube so that the opening is wide enough to accommodate the tablet or capsule that you are giving.

  • Give your cat some of the paste
  • Slip the capsule/tablet into the tube
  • Squeeze the paste with the medication up into your cat’s mouth.
  • Squeeze fast enough so that the tablet or capsule slips up into your cat’s mouth while she is licking and swallowing. On the other hand, don’t squeeze too fast or your cat will gag and refuse the treat.

Zelda, a Maine Coon cat, needs several gabapentin tablets to be calm for a lion cut. The other day, she bit into the first tablet in a pill pocket and then, understandably, refused the next treat-wrapped tablet. Fortunately, Zelda is trained to accept medication via a pet piller. She readily took the next tablet with the piller and was rewarded with a Churu treat.

Calming medications help reduce your cat’s anxiety and fear, resulting in a more productive veterinary visit. But it is challenging to give your cat a bitter pill. Training your cat to take medication not only ensures that your cat gets the medication he needs but also strengthens your relationship with him.

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Going to the vet can be an otherworldly experience for a cat!

Going to the vet can be like a scene from a science fiction movie for your cat. He becomes anxious the moment the “spaceship” (carrier) comes out. He boards his spaceship and then launches into the unknown. When his craft lands on the alien surface ( the vet clinic), he is met by aliens who make strange noises and poke and prod him with exotic instruments.

You have been working to make this experience not so frightening – you have carrier trained your cat, introduced him to the car, and practiced cat friendly handling with him. While training sets the stage for a good vet visit, sometimes a little medication can help a cat relax at the vet, reducing his anxiety just enough to make the visit a good one.

My youngest cat, Gus, was trapped on the streets of Old Colorado City and came to live at CatTails Feline Health Center for about 6 months before I took him home.  You would think that returning to a place he is familiar with would not be traumatic. However, when we returned for an exam, his heart rate was a whopping 230 bpm in spite of his training and my being with him. Gus now receives a dose of gabapentin before vet visits to reduce his anxiety and his heart rates are lower, 190-200 bpm.

Pre-Appointment medication can help a cat relax at the vet


Two of the more common drugs used to reduce cats’ anxiety at the veterinary clinic are gabapentin and trazadone.

gabapentin


  • developed as an anti-convulsant
  • has anti-anxiety properties – reduces the release of excitatory neurotransmitters
  • is a pain reliever

The typical dose is 100 mg given 1.5 – 2 hours prior to your cat’s vet visit. Frequently, a dose is given the night before. Doses can vary for individual cats – some cats may do well with a 50 mg dose while others may need 150 mg

Gabapentin is available in capsules; it can also be compounded in small tablets or made into a liquid.

  • capsules: The capsule is opened and the powder is mixed in a small amount of tuna fish or canned cat food. Gabapentin is bitter and some cats may not eat it in food. In these cases, it may be better to give the capsule directly to the cat.
  • liquid: The liquid may result in foaming at the mouth.
  • tablets: Gabapentin can also be compounded into flavored small tablets.

Your cat may be a little sleepy or wobbly after taking gabapentin. You may want to watch kitty near the stairs or jumping up on things!

Trazodone


Another drug used with cats is Trazodone. Trazodone is an antidepressant that is commonly prescribed for insomnia and depression in humans. Like gabapentin, one of its side effects is drowsiness and possibly anxiety reduction.
Trazodone can be combined with gabapentin if your vet feels that gabapentin does not provide enough sedation.

Typical dose is 50 mg given by mouth 90 minutes before the stressful event. Trazodone does lower blood pressure in cats (see reference below) and may have a higher risk of serotonin syndrome if used with other anti-depressant medication such as fluoxetine (Reconcile). Trazodone is available as a tablet or can be compounded into a liquid or capsule form.

Supplements


If you feel your cat is fairly calm and you are not ready to go the drug route, a calming supplement in place of medication can help a cat relax at the vet.  Supplements can help reduce a cat’s anxiety but will not induce the sedation afforded by gabapentin and trazodone.

Zylkene contains a protein derived from milk (alpha casozepine) that has been shown to induce calm behavior in cats (see reference below) It is recommended to start the supplement about 2 days prior to the vet visit. Most cats like Zylkene and will readily eat it sprinkled on their food. 

L-theanine is an amino acid that occurs naturally in green tea leaves. It has been shown to keep cats and dogs relaxed (see reference below) and comes in a tasty chew tablet. Solliquin (Nutramaxx) and Anxitane (Virbac) are two veterinary-labeled supplements containing L-theanine. Start the supplement per manufacturer’s directions 2-3 days before the vet visit.

Supplements or medication can help a cat relax at the vet and complement the training you have done to reduce your cat’s anxiety at his vet visit. Your cat will be less anxious and more willing to draw on what he has learned before and to accept new experiences.  Given under your veterinarian’s supervision, these drugs and supplements are safe and effective.  While the supplements are palatable, gabapentin and trazodone are bitter, which some cats may find aversive.  In the next post, we will see what we can do to encourage your cat to take a bitter pill.

references:


1. Fries RC, Kadotani S, Vitt JP, Schaeffer DJ. Effects of oral trazodone on echocardiographic and hemodynamic variables in healthy cats. Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery. 2019;21(12):1080-1085. doi:10.1177/1098612X18814565

2. Makawey A, Iben C, Palme R. Cats at the Vet: The Effect of Alpha-s1 Casozepine. Animals (Basel). 2020 Nov 5;10(11):2047. doi: 10.3390/ani10112047. PMID: 33167443; PMCID: PMC7694447.

3. Dramard, V., Kern, L., Hofmans, J. et al. Effect of l-theanine tablets in reducing stress-related emotional signs in cats: an open-label field study. Ir Vet J 71, 21 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1186/s13620-018-0130-4

 

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A feline practitioner listens to this cat’s chest in his preferred position.

What can your cat expect at her veterinary exam? The typical exam starts at the head and works through the body to the tail. This way health vitals are systematically collected. But it is important that the feline practitioner pay attention to the individual cat. For example, if your kitty seems to have pain in her mouth, in the cat friendly exam the vet may work through the rest of the exam first, and address the possibly painful mouth last. Saving the worst for last keeps your cat from anticipating pain throughout the entire exam.

Cats prefer high-intensity interactions that don’t last long. So, your cat may be offered a break between parts of the exam. Your cat may enjoy treats, toys, or gazing out a window during these breaks.

The Cat friendly Exam


Auscultation of the chest
Here your vet “listens” to your cat’s heart and lungs, measuring a heart rate and respiration rate in addition to noting abnormal heart rhythms (eg. heart murmur) and abnormal breathing sounds (eg. congestion). The vet typically will approach the cat from the back or side and use a stethoscope.

Head and Neck examination
Parts of this exam may happen even before your cat is on the exam table. Head tilts and facial swellings can be observed from a distance while your cat is walking around the room. In the more hands-on part of this exam, your vet may use an ophthalmoscope or otoscope to check the eyes and ears. He or she will also raise your cat’s lips to get a look at her teeth and open her mouth to check the oral cavity and get a quick look under her tongue.

Abdominal Palpation
In this part of the exam, the vet massages your cat’s belly to feel her intestines, kidneys, and bladder. It is also a check for possible growths in the abdomen and thickened walls in the intestines and bladder.

Back and limb assessment
This part of the exam includes assessment of the muscles along the spine and legs. The paws will also be evaluated and the claws extended.

Under the Tail Check
A quick look under the tail for fecal debris, swelling, and discharge… completes the exam.

Reference: “2022 AAFP/ISFM Cat Friendly Veterinary Interaction Guidelines: Approach and Handling Techniques”, Rodan et al.,  Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery, Volume 24, Issue 11, November 2022, Pages 1093-1132

the cat friendly exam: practice at home


Some of the handling your cat may encounter at his vet visit includes being lifted up onto an exam table, getting weighed on a scale, sitting on an exam table to have his chest auscultated, having his head and mouth examined, and having his back and legs massaged and handled.

You can practice some of the cat friendly exam handling with your cat at home.  Training some basic behaviors such as “pick up“, “sit” and “target” can make this a pleasant experience for you and your cat.

First – choose an area at home where you will train
Pick a table, counter, or dresser (avoid the kitchen table or counter) where you can set up your “exam room”.
You can purchase a baby scale to weigh your cat if you want to monitor his weight or just get the bathroom scale and place it on your counter. The weight from the bathroom scale will not be accurate but your cat will have the experience of getting on a scale.

Fast Forward…
Let’s say you have trained your cat to be picked up, to sit and to target. Your practice vet visit at home may go something like this:

Give your cat the “UP” cue and gently lift him (support his front and back body) and place him on the counter. Make sure to reward him (treats, head rubs…).

Once on the counter, use your target stick or finger, to guide him to walk over to the scale and climb on it. Once he is on the scale, ask him to “Sit”. Reward him when he sits.

Next, ask him to get off the scale using the target stick or your finger and have him sit on the counter.

Approaching him from behind, rub his head and hold it gently. Work up to lifting his lip to view his upper teeth.  Reward and repeat on the other side.

To evaluate his feet, massage each foot, gently extending his claws – reinforce cooperative behavior with a reward.

Give your cat the pick up cue, and gently put him back on the floor. Reward him for a job well done!

It does take some time to train your cat to be picked up, sit, and target and combine these behaviors as outlined above. And – unless your cat is used to performing away from home – he may not go through his home routine at the vet clinic, especially if he is being handled by strange people. But the handling in the cat friendly exam will be familiar due to his practice exams at home and should not trigger him to engage in protective or defensive behaviors.

Cats that are used to being handled do not get as stressed and anxious as those who are only handled occasionally. A cooperative cat needs little or no restraint and can often be examined by one person. Make sure you let your vet know which behaviors your cat is familiar with and what the cue is for each one.

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