What goes into Gus’s food dish?

In the last post, we spoke about your cat and some of her unique nutritional needs. She is an obligate carnivore, designed to eat small animals but she does have some flexibility and can use carbohydrates for energy. Lean times are hard for cats and their livers are slow to process stored fat. Unlike other mammals, her body does not synthesize the amino acids, taurine and arginine, and these must be provided in her diet.

Cats dine on small rodents, rabbits, birds, reptiles and insects. They will consume the entire animal, fur, tendons, blood, gut contents…  Even if your cat is an active outdoor hunter, you are going to offer her some food and will probably turn to some of the many commercial cat foods available.

feeding your cat A complete and balanced diet


A feral cat gets about 52% of his energy from protein and 46% from the fat of the prey he eats.  Your cat will need a diet with protein and fat.  Like other animals, the cells in his body require glucose (a carbohydrate) to function. Cats typically use proteins for energy and produce glucose via gluconeogenesis, regardless of fasting or starvation. But cats are flexible and if they consume a minimum amount of protein, they can use dietary carbohydrate as a source of glucose, and spare the proteins for other tasks, such as building and repairing tissues and acting as hormones (reference 3). When feeding your cat, you will want to offer him some fat and carbohydrates, in addition to protein.

How much fat? carbohydrates? protein?


Like people, cats are individuals and their dietary intake varies. Most of the time, we feed our cats and note if they gain or lose weight, and adjust their intake accordingly. 

What is a complete and balanced diet for a cat? A complete and balanced diet will provide the cat all the nutrition she needs, including essential amino acids, protein, fat and minerals. Most pet foods on the market will have a label stating that the food is formulated according to the guidelines established by the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) or in Europe, the European Pet Food Industry Federation (FEDIAF).  We look briefly at the AAFCO guidelines.

About AAFCO

The original guidelines were formulated in 1990 and have been revised several times; the latest iteration was in 2007-2008. The guidelines establish nutrient concentrations for ingredients typically sourced for pet food.  Nutrients include protein, fat, essential amino acids, vitamins and minerals.

AAFCO profiles guarantee that the product contains the minimum (or maximum) concentrations for the nutrients in the profile.   For example, protein in excess of the minimum concentration is acceptable whereas a maximum concentration for Vitamin D avoids concerns with toxicity. There are two profiles for cats: one for “growth and reproduction” and a second for “adult maintenance”.  The chart below shows the recommendations for fat and protein in cat foods. (Reference 1)

AAFCO Nutrient ProfileProteinFat
Growth & Reproduction30%9%
Adult Maintenance26%9%

The Cat Food Label:

The label that goes on a can or bag of cat food has eight items.  We will focus on item 4: the Guaranteed Analysis. This is a list of the percentage of each of the nutrients in the food. The minimum percent of crude protein and crude fat, and the maximum percent of crude fiber and moisture must be included. (See Feeding Your Cat: Choosing a Food for more about AAFCO labels).

Fats


There is not an established requirement for fat. The minimum concentration of 9% in the AAFCO guidelines is based on recognition of the role that fat plays in the diet: a source of essential fatty acids, a carrier of fat-soluble vitamins, enhances palatability, and supplies adequate calories. (Reference 1)

Fats are used for energy (providing 9 kcals/g) and if there is more fat than the cat needs in his diet, he will store it – like those “chonky” cats on the internet. Fats also increases the palatability of the diet and may encourage over-eating.  There are low-calorie diets containing less than 9% fat that have an AAFCO label.

Carbohydrates


Carbohydrates are not listed in the guaranteed analysis. An estimated percentage of carbohydrates can be calculated by adding up the protein, fat, crude fiber, moisture and ash listed in the guaranteed analysis and subtracting this total from 100%. (Reference 2).

In the wild, cats eat a diet that is primarily protein and fat. This leads many folks to think that cats do not need or use carbohydrates. But like other animals, their cells require glucose to function.  They can either get this by breaking down protein or from dietary carbohydrate.

Carbohydrates are necessary in the processing of commercial cat food, particularly kibble. Most commercial dry foods contain 33-45% as carbohydrates (dry matter)(Reference 4); canned foods tend to have less than 10%.

Some carbohydrates in the cat’s diet will not present a problem providing he gets enough protein. Too much carbohydrate (even highly digestible carbohydrates) can cause diarrhea, flatulence and bloating (Reference 3).  Feeding your cat too much carbohydrate can also “dilute” the protein in the food – the cat may reach satiety before getting his necessary protein. Diets greater than 60% dry matter risk nutrient unbalance.  Even smaller amounts (50% dry matter) can be a problem – for example, kittens need a lot of protein and too many carbohydrates will reduce the protein available to them. (Reference 4)

And Now for Protein…


Your cat is an obligate carnivore and protein is an essential part of a cat’s complete and balanced diet.  Cats have distinct dietary requirements for protein and these will be the subject of the next post in “Feeding Your Cat”.

References


  1. AAFCO Methods for Substantiating Nutritional Adequacy of Dog and Cat Foods. https://www.aafco.org/
  2. Heinz, C. “Carb Confusion: Part 2. Measuring and Comparing Carbohydrates in Pet Foods” (9/27/21) https://vetnutrition.tufts.edu/2021/09/carb-confusion-part-2-measuring-carbs/.
  3. Verbrugghe A, Hesta M. Cats and Carbohydrates: The Carnivore Fantasy? Vet Sci. 2017 Nov 15;4(4):55. doi: 10.3390/vetsci4040055. PMID: 29140289; PMCID: PMC5753635.
  4. Kirk, Claudia. “Feline Nutrition: What Is Excess Carbohydrate?”. Purina Companion Animal Nutrition Summit: Tackling Myths About Pet Nutrition, Atlanta, GA March 21-23, 2013.

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Finicky cat with food choicesCats are what we call “obligate carnivores” – they have evolved to eat a diet primarily of animal meat. They have small stomachs, short intestinal tracts, and are designed to eat frequently.  A feral cat eats eats the equivalent of 6-8 mice as he hunts from dusk to dawn. In addition to small rodents, reptiles, birds, insects, and rabbits are also on the menu. He consumes the entire prey, including the blood, hair, skin, bones, tendons, and gut contents. These prey are high in protein, have some fat, but little carbohydrate. A feral cat gets about 52% of his energy from protein and 46% from the fat of the prey he eats.

This post is the first in a series that aims to highlight things you need to know when feeding your cat.

Three things to know when feeding your cat


Essential Amino Acids


Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, those molecules that are used to build and repair tissues and act as hormones or enzymes, among other roles.
Amino acids not synthesized in the body are called essential amino acids and must be consumed in the diet. The 9 essential amino acids required by most mammals are: histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, tryptophan, and valine. (Reference 1)

Cats must consume two additional amino acids: arginine and taurine. (Reference 1)

  • Taurine (for vision, cardiac muscle function and the function of nervous, reproductive and immune systems). Sources are meat, poultry (in particular the heart) and fish.
  • Arginine (for making proteins, stimulating the release of growth hormone and insulin, helps eliminate ammonia from the body).  Sources are animal tissue.

#1. These 11 essential amino acids will be supplemented in cat foods that are formulated according to the AAFCO feeding guidelines.

Feeding Your Cat – Can Cats Digest Carbohydrates?


Cats in the wild eat a diet high in protein and fat, with little carbohydrate.  Carbohydrates (grains, corn, potatoes, legumes) are needed to make dry commercial pet foods. Carbohydrates are combined with other nutrients to make a “dough” that is formed into kibble and cooked.  These foods certainly are convenient and many cats like them, but can they digest the carbohydrates in these foods?

CATS AND CARBOHYDRATES

Dietary carbohydrate provides glucose to the cells for most species including humans. If there is not enough dietary carbohydrate, proteins can be used as a glucose source via the process of gluconeogenesis. Gluconeogenesis occurs in the liver and is activated for most species during fasting and starvation.

In contrast, cats are obligate carnivores and consume a diet high in protein in the wild. They typically use proteins for energy and produce glucose via the gluconeogenesis pathway, regardless of fasting or starvation. Glucose can be stored in the tissues in the form of glycogen (Reference 2).

#2. Cats have low levels of the enzymes needed to digest carbohydrates in their saliva and gastrointestinal tract. However, recent studies have found that adult cats can digest carbohydrates added to a meat-based diet, providing the starches and grains are processed appropriately, for example, by cooking.

These studies also show that cats can increase or decrease protein metabolism depending on how much protein is available.  For this to happen, the cat has to eat a minimum amount of protein. After that threshold (about 15% metabolizable energy in cats) is reached, cats can use carbohydrates to produce glucose, sparing the proteins for other essential processes in the body, such as building and repairing tissues and acting as hormones. (Reference 3)

feeding your cat – make sure your cat eats every day


The Process of Starvation

Cats are designed to eat frequently.  When faced with dwindling food supplies, the cat will initially use glycogen for energy.  Once glycogen stores are depleted, amino acids are mobilized from lean muscle. Within a few days, the cat’s body will start to use fat stores for energy.

The fat moves to the liver to compensate for the fat that would normally be eaten in food. The cat’s liver can only process so much fat at a time and, consequently, fat can accumulate in the cat’s liver (“fatty liver syndrome”) and prevent the liver from functioning properly.

Hepatic Lipidosis – “Fatty Liver Syndome”


  • The liver of a cat with hepatic lipidosis may triple in size due to accumulation of fat.
  • Hepatic lipidosis is associated with anorexia (not eating).
  • The onset can be rapid, maybe 2-7 days.
  • Hepatic lipidosis can be FATAL!

Treatment of the Yellow Cat


The typical patient with hepatic lipdosis is a cat around 7 years old who is overweight. Clinical signs include lack of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea and lethargy. As the disorder progresses, the cat’s ears, mouth and skin may take on a yellowish hue.

Cats with hepatic lipidosis require nutritional support and intravenous fluids to correct dehydration and electrolyte imbalances. Diagnostic bloodwork is done to identify possible underlying disease.

A feeding tube may be passed through the nose into the stomach or placed surgically in the esophagus via an incision in the neck.

With appropriate care, most patients survive although recovery often involves 3-6 weeks of tube feedings.

#3.  Please seek veterinary care promptly if your cat does not eat for 24-48 hours. Hepatic lipidosis is less costly to treat and the prognosis is better the sooner treatment starts.

 

Your cat evolved to be a superb hunter.  Along the way, her body adapted to a diet high in animal protein with a unique physiology and metabolism.  Here are three things to remember when feeding your cat:

  1. Choose a food formulated for cats to ensure that she will get all the essential amino acids she needs and enough protein.
  2. Cats can digest carbohydrates that have been processed appropriately if they consume sufficient protein.
  3. Make sure your cat eats every day. Seek veterinary care if she does not eat for 24-48 hours.
Daily Food Portion Cat
Gus looks at his daily food allotment. Treats count!

references

1. Danks, Lee. “The cat as a carnivore: proteins, carbohydrate and beyond” https://www.veterinary-practice.com/article/the-cat-as-a-carnivore-proteins-carbohydrates-and-beyond (viewed 4/29/23)

2. Schermerhorn, T. Front. Endocrinol., 03 December 2013, Sec. Clinical Diabetes,Volume 4 – 2013 | https://doi.org/10.3389/fendo.2013.00188

3. Laflamme, Dottie “Focus on Nutrition: Cats and Carbohydrates: Implications for Health and Disease”, Nutrition Compendium January 2010 (Vol 32, No 1). https://www.vetfolio.com/learn/article/focus-on-nutrition-cats-and-carbohydrates-implications-for-health-and-disease

 

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In celebration of Earth Day, this week’s post continues to focus on sustainable cat care. One of your cat’s essential resources is his litter box. Litter boxes are typically made of plastic but there are many choices of litter box filler. How can your choice of cat box filler help in reducing your cat’s carbon pawprint?

What makes a cat litter sustainable?

  • Made from renewable resources
  • High absorbency to reduce the amount needed
  • Biodegradable

Reducing your cat’s carbon pawprint: sustainable cat litters


the scoop on kitty litter


Kitty litter is the brainchild of Edward Lowe. He began promoting fuller’s earth, an absorbent clay, as  a cat box filler in 1947. Previously sand and ashes had been used as cat box filler – neither had the absorbency of the new clay product.

Clay cat litters are still with us. The original kitty litter was a non-clumping litter. In 1984, Thomas Nelson developed clumping cat litter using calcium bentonite. Clay materials dominated the cat litter market in 2021 with a share of 83.6% per Grandview Research

Clay Litters are not sustainable

These materials come from strip mines. Not only are they not renewable (at least in our lifetimes), they wreak havoc on the environment. They are not biodegradable. They are, however, relatively inexpensive.

Alternatives to Clay Litters

Other types of litters include those made from silica, recycled paper, wood, corn, peas, walnut shells, coconut husks, and grass.

Cat litter made from silica (crystal litters) and diatomaceous earth also must be mined. Diatomaceous earth is the fossilized remains of tiny aquatic organisms called diatoms – again, these litters are not renewable and not sustainable.

Recycled Paper

Litters made from recycled paper come from sustainable sources. However, some paper litters are not very absorbent and have to be changed frequently.  This may contribute to increased mass in a landfill. Paper is biodegradable.

Clumping or non-clumping?
Clumping litters make it easier to scoop the litter box frequently (at least once a day!) The clumping litter sticks to the waste and keeps it from contaminating the remaining litter. It more likely that you will dump non-clumping litter more frequently because the soiled litter with  mixes the non-soiled litter.  Using non-clumping litter may increase the amount of litter in the landfill.

Plant-based Litters

Plant-based litters are made from corn, peas, wheat, wood, and even tofu by-products. Starch and plant fibers such as guar gum make these litters clump. These litters tend to be lighter, less dusty and more absorbent than clay litter and are biodegradable. They are unfortunately more expensive than the old clay standby but they are sustainable.

  • You can grow more plants to produce more litter.
  • The growing and harvesting methods do not damage the environment as much as strip mining.
  • Plant-based litters are more absorbent than clay and less plant-based litter is needed for the litter pan.

A Better Mousetrap?

The Tidy Cat Breeze system uses zeolite pellets on a grate with a disposable pad underneath to catch liquid waste. Per the manufacturer, the pad is changed every week and the pellets monthly.

Zeolite is another mined material so loses some marks in sustainability although some people wash and reuse these pellets. This can extend the life of the pellets by a few months. The absorbent pad is plastic-backed so this is more plastic to go in the landfill.  Another downside to this system is you may have to train your cat to use it – cats prefer softer finer particles in their litter.

litter in the landfill


 Disposal options for cat litters include landfills, flushing down the toilet, and composting.

  • Clay litters cannot be flushed down the toilet or composted.
  • Even biodegradable litters may not degrade much in a landfill.
  • Although much of the plant-based products can be flushed, there are the risks of clogged plumbing and introduction of pathogens into the water supply.
  • These litters can be composted although there are concerns about parasites and bacteria from decomposing pet waste.

Composting cat litter
This is a controversial topic. Although plant and paper-based soiled cat litters can be composted, home compost piles do not get hot enough to kill pathogens so you certainly do not want to use composted cat litter on vegetable gardens.

Reducing Your cat’s carbon pawprint using sustainable cat litter


As the sun sets on 2023 Earth Day, here are some conclusions:

  • Clay and other mineral based cat litters come from limited natural resources and are not sustainable.
  • Paper and plant-based litters come from renewable resources, are biodegradable, and more sustainable.
  • Paper and plant-based cat litters absorb more liquid than clay litters so not as much litter is needed in the litter tray.

If you are interested in reducing your cat’s carbon pawprint, consider trying the paper and plant-based litters.

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Can insect-based cat food help you reduce your cat’s carbon pawprint?

Sustainability is a word you hear a lot these days, as more and more people compete for natural resources and deal with the effects of climate change. Sustainability is defined as “meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” (United Nations Brundtland Commission 1987). So, you recycle plastics, take reusable bags to the grocery store, and limit the use of your car to reduce your “carbon footprint”.

How can you care for your cat sustainably? How can you go about reducing your cat’s carbon pawprint? In this post, we will talk about one of the recent trends in pet food aimed at sustainability: the use of insects as a food source (Reference 1)

reducing your cat’s carbon pawprint


Do Insect-based Foods Provide Sufficient Nutrition for Cats?

Our cats are obligate carnivores and are designed to eat primarily meat. Since many of our cats live indoors with us, they are not out hunting – we provide them meat-based cat food. Raising food animals (chickens, cattle, pigs…) for pet food produces significant amounts of greenhouse gases (carbon dioxide, methane, water vapor…)  and so is not very sustainable.

Insect Nutrition

  • Meal made from insects has as much protein as animal meal.
  • Insects have amino acids that are very similar to those in animals and cats are able to digest these.
  • Insect larvae are a good source of energy due to their fat content.
  • Insects are rich in minerals and provide necessary dietary fiber.
  • Insects are more protein dense – per weight, it takes 3 times more chicken leg meat to provide the same protein as insect meal.
  • Insects make up 2% or more of a feral cat’s diet.

Reducing Your Cat’s Carbon Pawprint by Feeding Insect-based Foods

  • Insects require less water and land use than food animals.
  • There are lower greenhouse gas emissions when farming insects compared to food animals.
  • Mealworms and fly larvae convert 45-55% dietary protein into edible body mass compared to the 33% conversion rate of a chicken.
  • Insects can feed on fruit and vegetable by products, household waste, slaughter plant waste and convert this into edible food.

What Insects are Used for Pet Food?

There are three insects currently used in animal foods: black soldier fly larvae, mealworm larvae, and adult house crickets. Black soldier fly larvae are most commonly used in pet foods.

Are Insect Foods Safe for Our Pets?

The insect larvae are blanched, chilled or frozen, then dried and ground into meal. In the process, moisture is removed, reducing microorgansims and inactivating enzymes that cause spoilage.  Heat treatment of the meal when making pelleted foods helps reduce bacteria and microorganisms.

Most insect bacteria and viruses usually do not affect animals and humans.  However, insects can be vectors of some pathogens, parasites, and prions.  Feeding the insects on vegetable waste (and not animal waste) makes insect food safer.

More studies aimed specifically at cats eating insect-based foods are needed.

Do I want my cat to eat bugs?

In Asia, Africa and South America, it is not uncommon to find insects on the menu. Chapulines or fried grasshoppers can also be found in restaurants in Mexico and even in California and Texas. However, insect consumption is not widespread in western countries.

Researchers from Oklahoma State University conducted a survey of 1,021 Americans in 2021 to see if they would be more willing to consume food containing powdered crickets than raw oysters (a food that although widely eaten is viewed as “yucky” by some). The findings: about one-third of Americans are willing to both try and consume insect products on a regular basis, provided they are tasty and safe to eat. (see Reference 2)

Another survey (Reference 3) in the United States that targeted dog owners found that participants:

  • were more likely themselves to try food made with insect flour than to eat the whole insects
  • were  more willing to incorporate insect meal but not whole insects into their dogs’ diets.

Where Can I Buy Insect-based Cat Food?

A casual Internet search turned up a handful of companies marketing cat foods with insect protein.  Most of these are based in Europe and Asia.  The only cat food that I could easily purchase in the US is made by the Canadian company Catit.  Catit offers dry cat food mixes of insect protein with chicken or herring called Catit Nuna. I contacted Catit regarding feeding trials with these foods.  They responded that Catit Nuna is formulated by pet nutritionists and has undergone feeding trials per AAFCO protocols for acceptability, digestibility and palatability.

Insect-based cat foods certainly sound like they may offer some options in reducing your cat’s carbon pawprint. However, it looks like we will need to wait for more research and development before these foods become mainstream.

REFERENCES:

  1. Valdes et al., Insects as Feed for Companion and Exotic Pets: A Current Trend. Animals 2022, 12, 1450. https://doi.org/10.3390/ani12111450
  2. Melissa Reed, Bailey F. Norwood, W. Wyatt Hoback, Angel Riggs, A survey of willingness to consume insects and a measure of college student perceptions of insect consumption using Q methodology, Future Foods,Volume 4, 2021,100046,ISSN 2666-8335, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.fufo.2021.100046.
  3. Jennifer E. Higa, Matthew B. Ruby, Paul Rozin, Americans’ acceptance of black soldier fly larvae as food for themselves, their dogs, and farmed animals, Food Quality and Preference,Volume 90,2021, 104119, ISSN 0950-3293, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodqual.2020.104119.

 

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Pilling a Cat with Pet Piller
This cat knows how to take medication from a pet piller.

Many cats are terrified coming to the veterinary clinic. Some freeze in fear while others fight for their lives.  Calming medications given before the vet visit can reduce your cat’s anxiety!

Your vet has prescribed calming medication for your cat. So, what’s next?

How to Give Your Cat a Bitter Pill


Calming medications such as gabapentin and trazadone are bitter.  How do you give your cat a bitter pill?

Giving Medication in Food
Pros: convenient for the caregiver
Cons: If you give your cat a bitter pill in her food, she may refuse to eat that food in the future. Use something other than your cat’s regular diet, say, tuna fish.
Cons: Your cat needs to eat all the food to get her full dose of medication. Use as small an amount as possible of strongly flavored food to deliver the medication.

Tip: “Hunger is the best sauce” according to Sancho Panza’s wife, Teresa, in the novel Don Quixote. If your kitty is hungry, she will be more likely to eat the food containing the medication. Fast your cat overnight or pick up her food 2-3 hours before offering the medication in food.

Pilling by hand
If your cat accepts being “pilled”, coat the capsule or tablet in some butter or a pill treat, and slip it down kitty’s throat. Video Link.

Pros: You will know that your cat has gotten the medication
Cons: No one likes having something shoved down his throat. Your cat may gag and spit out the tablet.
Cons: It may be hard to repeat the dose if your cat decides to hide.

Tip: Reward your cat with some tuna juice or a tuna paste treat after she swallows the pill.  This will also help the tablet or capsule go down.

Other Ways to Give Your Cat a Bitter Pill


Make your cat a partner in his health care. Let’s reward him with something of value for taking the medication. Take a few minutes and think about what your cat really likes.  Is there a particular treat he likes – liverwurst, cheese, tuna or chicken paste? Catnip? Grooming session?

Do some “pill training” with the following methods before you try giving the medication. You can use hard treats or kibble as “fake pills”.  Start 3-4 days before you have to give the medication. This way you can practice your technique without wasting the prescription medication or running the risk of your cat biting into the bitter pill.

Introducing a pill into a stream of treats

This technique works best if the tablets are small and the cat is hungry. With larger tablets, you run the risk that the cat will bite into the bitter pill.

  • Offer your cat several treats.
  • Then offer a “fake” pill (a treat in a “pill treat”, cheese, liverwurst – something you can mold around the pill).
  • Immediately present more treats as your cat finishes eating the “fake” pill.
  • Video Link

Using a Pet Piller

Contercondition Pet Piller
Niki enjoys some chicken baby food on a pet piller.

You can use a “pet piller” to give the capsule or tablet. A pet piller is a tube with a plunger and a soft tip. The pill fits into the tip.

To use a “piller”, it is best to practice first with treats. If your cat likes tuna or chicken paste, start by offering your cat the paste on the piller and letting him lick it off. This way he associates swallowing with piller.

Work up to offering a “fake” pill in the piller after your cat has licked off the paste. You want to ease the “fake pill” into the side of mouth onto the “wave” (back) of the tongue. Avoid cramming the piller down the cat’s throat and making him gag. Follow with more paste on the piller to help your cat swallow the pill.

It may take a few trials for your cat to learn to use this gadget. Once he does, he will voluntarily swallow the pill in anticipation of getting more treats. This method works well for a variety of sizes of tablets and capsules. Video Link.

Using a Squeeze-Up Treat

If your cat likes the tubes of paste (Churu, Delectable) that you can squeeze up into her mouth, you can try to give small capsules or tablets using squeeze-up treats. You will want to cut the tube so that the opening is wide enough to accommodate the tablet or capsule that you are giving.

  • Give your cat some of the paste
  • Slip the capsule/tablet into the tube
  • Squeeze the paste with the medication up into your cat’s mouth.
  • Squeeze fast enough so that the tablet or capsule slips up into your cat’s mouth while she is licking and swallowing. On the other hand, don’t squeeze too fast or your cat will gag and refuse the treat.

Zelda, a Maine Coon cat, needs several gabapentin tablets to be calm for a lion cut. The other day, she bit into the first tablet in a pill pocket and then, understandably, refused the next treat-wrapped tablet. Fortunately, Zelda is trained to accept medication via a pet piller. She readily took the next tablet with the piller and was rewarded with a Churu treat.

Calming medications help reduce your cat’s anxiety and fear, resulting in a more productive veterinary visit. But it is challenging to give your cat a bitter pill. Training your cat to take medication not only ensures that your cat gets the medication he needs but also strengthens your relationship with him.

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Working at a cat hospital, I have become sensitized to my patients’ distress. Many cats are terrified coming to the veterinary clinic. The experience is not only stressful for the cat but it can be stressful for you, the cat owner. Perhaps you feel embarrassed when your cat misbehaves or maybe you just dread the ordeal of getting your cat into his carrier. These are a few of the reasons why we don’t see as many cats at a veterinary clinic as dogs, although cats outnumber dogs as pets.

The net result of this stress and anxiety is that you may delay medical care for your cat because getting to the vet is so stressful.

What can we do to reduce the fear and anxiety of the vet visit for us and our kitties?

This is the first of a series of posts about making vet visits better for your cat. We will start by looking at how your cat feels about the vet clinic.

making vet visits better for your cat (and you!)


from the feline perspective


You know something’s up – your carrier is out. You hide under the bed but your human pulls you out and proceeds to squeeze you into the dreaded box.

You swing along in the air and then are loaded into a larger box that moves and smells funny.

You finally stop moving and swing through the air some more and arrive at another house where you smell lots of other animals. Oh no, not this place again! You can smell other cats – most of these cats too are afraid. As you move through the fog of smells, you arrive in a small room with a metal table.

A strange human opens your carrier door and tries to coax you to come out – you’re not sure what is out there but now your carrier seems like a good place to stay.

Suddenly, your world tilts and you slide out of the carrier onto the cold, hard table.

You hiss your displeasure. Another strange human proceeds to look into your eyes, put a hard plastic thing in your ears, and presses a cold metal disc against your chest.

Then, the strange human pokes you with a needle and you are finally allowed to escape back into the dreaded carrier – at least, it has taken you back home before.

The veterinary visit can make the most mellow cat anxious.

Does your cat…

  • Turn into a frozen lump on the exam table?
  • Or does he become a Tasmanian devil, hissing and striking at the veterinary staff?
  • Or will he frantically eat the treats offered in an effort to soothe himself?

How can we ask our cats to accept handling and medical exams?

Making vet visits better for your cat (and you!)


Sedation is one way to relieve anxiety and fear. But sedation works better when your cat is used to being handled. (For more about sedation, see https://www.felinepurrspective.com/medication-before-your-cats-vet-visit/).

In this series of posts, we are going train our cats to accept the handling that goes along with the veterinary exam. We will break the vet visit down into parts and work on making your cat comfortable with each part. We will use a technique known as “clicker training” to communicate safety and familiarity to your cat.  Your cat voluntarily accepts handling in exchange for something he likes. In this way, your cat becomes an active participant in his health care.

THE VET VISIT IN PIECES


  1. Getting kitty into the cat carrier
  2. The car ride
  3. The waiting room
  4. The exam room/vet exam
  5. Other procedures
  6. Homeward bound

From getting your cat into her carrier to the return trip to home, training can help reduce situational anxiety by making handling and traveling positive, familiar experiences.

However, don’t expect your cat to go through his entire repertoire of behaviors in a distracting environment with strange people such as the veterinary clinic. Unless you train your cat in such an environment, he may behave as if he has never done any of these  things before. However, because he is used to being handled, appropriate handling should not elicit defensive behavior.

A frightened cat fighting for his life is very intimidating to handle. However, the past 2 decades has seen the advent of stress-free handling techniques designed to address the frightened cat. If you have concerns about how your cat is handled at the veterinary practice, consider taking your cat to a Cat Friendly practice, where staff is trained in feline handling techniques.

Making vet visits better for your cat is challenging, even if your cat is calm, relaxed and food motivated.  We will start next week with carrier training.

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Brushing the Upper premolarsIn Part 1 of Brushing Your Cat’s Teeth: Why and How, we learned that brushing your cat’s teeth with a pet toothpaste such as the PetSmile or Virbac CET brands can help reduce the bacteria in your cat’s mouth and improve her dental health. But how do you convince your cat to let you brush her teeth?

The answer is to find something she likes (a Greenies dental treat? head rubs?) that you can use as a reward and break the tooth brushing into small steps that she can master while she becomes accustomed to the process.

brushing your cat’s teeth: Step by Step


To brush your cat’s teeth, your cat needs to

  1. sit still and have her head held
  2. accept the toothpaste
  3. allow you to apply some toothpaste onto to her upper cheek teeth with your finger
  4. allow you to gently brush her teeth

 

Step One


It is important to watch your cat’s body language and proceed at her pace. Break these steps up into smaller ones if you need to. For example, it will be helpful if your cat knows to sit on cue reliably before asking her to let you hold her head.

step two


In step two, we will offer her the toothpaste. Cat toothpaste is available in several flavors including chicken and seafood. Choose the flavor you think she’ll like best. Offer her the toothpaste on your finger and then on the toothbrush.

step three


Once she indicates which toothpaste she likes, move to step three: put some tooth paste on your finger and try gently rubbing her teeth.

step four


Go slowly with the toothbrush and use a very light touch. Remember, when you brush your own teeth, you can feel how hard you are pressing – you don’t have this feedback when brushing your cat’s teeth. The first few sessions will be short – try to end on a positive note, before she starts to struggle or wants to leave.

Make sure to reward her after each step. It may seem counter productive to give her a dental treat – after all, you just brushed her teeth! However, you have disturbed the biofilm with brushing and the saliva now contains the toothpaste with its antibacterial components.

It may take your cat several weeks to master all these steps.  Above all, go at your cat’s pace. Don’t move to the next step until she has mastered the step before.

To see how it’s done, check out the two-part video series, “Brushing Your Cat’s Teeth: Why and How” in the video gallery at www.felinepurrspective.com.  Part 2 features video of cats having their teeth brushed.

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Cat with Human toothbrush
Human toothbrushes are not designed for cats’ smaller mouths.

Good dental care for people centers on regular dental cleanings once or twice a year. This is supplemented by home dental care – twice daily brushing and daily (or more) flossing. Our cats should have periodic professional cleanings done under anesthesia but what about home dental care? How about brushing your cat’s teeth?

Brushing your cat’s teeth


The Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) has a list of accepted products for cats. On this list are several dental diets including the over-the-counter Hills Oral Care, a water additive, oral spray and oral gel made by HealthyMouth, in addition to Greenies treats. The list is a bit outdated with the most recent entries dated 2012. Nowhere are toothbrushes or toothpaste.

Having tried the diets, the water additive, and brushing teeth, I have found that hands-down brushing your cat’s teeth is the most effective. Tartar accumulates most frequently on the outside of the cat’s upper premolars and those are the teeth we can target.

The benefits? Brushing reduces the amount of bacteria in the mouth more effectively than water additives and sprays. Cats are prone to developing tooth resorption which is similar in some ways to human cavities. However, where filling cavities works in human teeth, these feline resorptive lesions just get bigger and bigger once they start and filling them does not work – they need to be extracted.

While we don’t really know why tooth resorption occurs in cats, bacteria is thought to play a major role. (“Microbiome analysis of feline odontoclastic resorptive lesions (FORL) and feline oral health”, Thomas et al., J Med Microbiol. 2021; 70(4): 001353.)

For dogs, VOHC recommends the PetSmile brand of toothpaste, that works by dissolving the biofilm that forms on the teeth using hydrogen peroxide.  The PetSmile website indicates that this toothpaste can be used for cats also.

Virbac makes the CET brand of dog and cat toothpastes.  CET toothpaste contains lactoperoxidase and is designed to boost a naturally occurring anti-bacterial process in the cat’s saliva.  Watanabe and colleagues measured bacterial counts on dogs’ teeth and found that simply applying the toothpaste to the teeth reduced bacteria, although not as much as brushing with the toothpaste. (J Vet Med Sci. 2016 Jul; 78(7): 1205–1208. “Inhibitory effect for proliferation of oral bacteria in dogs by tooth brushing and application of toothpaste”)

So, consider brushing your cat’s teeth. To learn more, check out the two-part video series, “Brushing Your Cat’s Teeth: Why and How” in the video gallery at www.felinepurrspective.com.  Start with Part 1 to find out which teeth you need to brush, what you need to do this, and a strategy to encourage your cat to accept the toothbrush.

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a cat chewing on plasticHave you had or do you have a cat who would eat anything – hair ties, ribbons, plastic – in addition to food? Have you experienced the anxiety waiting for your cat to pass whatever object you think he ate? It is not unheard of for cats to eat, chew or suck on non-food items. This behavior is called pica.  How do you manage the cat with pica?

The Bristol Cat Study (Animals 2021, 11(4), 1101; https://doi.org/10.3390/ani11041101) followed a group of cats for a little over 3 years.  To participate in the study, the owners had to own a kitten or kittens, 8-16 weeks old at the time of registration.

These owners were asked whether or not their cats chewed (with or without ingesting) one or more of the following items: 1) woolen fabrics 2) other fabrics 3) plastics 4) other materials. These questions were repeated at 2-4 months, 6.5-7 months, 12.5-13 months, and finally at 18.5-19 months.  About 25% of 2203 cats were reported to exhibit some pica behavior.

Findings

  • plastics were the most commonly targeted material
  • pica was most commonly reported at 6.5-7 months of age
  • about half of the cats reported to have pica at 6 months did not show pica at 18-19 months of age
  • cats who moved to a new house when they were around year old were more likely to have pica

 

Managing the cat with pica


Pica can result in GI injury, poisoning, or electric shock. The goal of managing pica is to prevent injury to the cat.

Step one: Identify the material being targeted


Yarn? Thread? Hair Ties?

  • yarn can wrap around the tongue
  • thread may have a sharp needle attached
  • hair ties

Poisons?

  • Household chemicals: cleaners, antifreeze, insecticides, plant sprays
  • House Plants: can be toxic – lilies in particular can cause kidney damage even in small amounts

Other?

  • Filmy plastics and things like “fabric softener sheets”
  • Chewing/biting electrical cords
  • Kneading and sucking on blankets
  • Chewing or sucking on toys

Step two: Keep targeted items out of reach of the cat with pica


  • keep blankets and other fabrics in closets your cat can’t get into
  • put hair ties and elastics away
  • replace toys your cat may be eating with ones that he can’t eat
  • supervise play times and access to toys
  • cover electrical cords with plastic covers that cats can’t bite through
  • unplug unused appliances
  • discard or hang houseplants
  • store household chemicals in a secure closet

Step three: Provide the cat with pica an alternative behavior


We would like to provide Kitty with an outlet for her oral activities and provide something safe for her to interact with.

Cat using food puzzleKeeping kitty busy


Try “free feeding” your cat with pica if possible. If “free-feeding” is not an option, frequent small meals will work. Food puzzles offer a natural cat behavior (foraging) as well as a snack. For some ideas, visit foodpuzzlesforcats.com.

Licking – a soothing behavior for cats


Slow-feeding mats are textured silicone mats that you spread canned food on. The cat licks the food off much like a wild cat may lick meat off a bone. Licking appears to be calming and soothing to cats. Some cats may like licking toys or balls made from compressed catnip.

Chewing

There are silicone toys that can be filled with catnip or silver vine (see the PetZone Boredom Buster dental chew toy). There is also a gum stimulator on the Catit Wellness Center that is designed to be chewed and sucked on. If you try these, be sure to monitor the wear on them and be around to supervise your kitty with these.

Cat Grass


Cats are attracted to grass and like to chew on it. There is the grass sold at pet stores and seeds you can plant. Some varieties of ornamental grasses are non-toxic to cats. Make sure to check the ASPCA site to make sure that the plants you choose are safe.

Step four: reducing stress in the cat with pica


Stress can stimulate an increase in pica behaviors, especially as cats grow out of the kitten stage. Identify and reduce stress whenever possible.

Social stress: 

  • How does the cat with pica get along with other pets in the household?
  • Do neighborhood cats come to the windows?
  • Are interactions with humans
 predictable?

Environmental stress:

Managing the cat with pica can be challenging.  Although the Bristol Cat Study indicated that half the cats who had been reported with pica at 6 months were no longer chewing/ingesting things at 18 months, it is wise to monitor your cat for such behavior, even if it seems to have gone away. Providing cats with safe opportunities to lick and chew is key to having a happy and healthy cat.

Your veterinary team is an important resource if you suspect your cat has pica. GI distress, oral pain and neurological issues can sometimes exacerbate pica and are best treated.

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In the U.S., it has become common to keep cats solely indoors. Indoor cats live longer – they are not run over by cars, hunted by coyotes, or injured in cat fights.

However, there is a cost to this safety and security. Indoor cats have fewer opportunities to exercise and don’t receive the mental stimulation from hunting and exploring the outdoors.

Both cats and zoo animals are captives in the environments we provide for them. Like zoo animals, cats need enrichment to maintain their health and welfare.  A safe place outdoors can provide cats with enrichment from the scents, sounds and views of the outside world.

a catio is a safe place outdoors for cats


I lived in a townhome for 13 years. The common grounds in the complex were spacious and like a park.  I was able to walk my cats daily; I also built a small cat enclosure (footprint was 3′ by 6′) that the cats could access by a pet door in the sliding patio door.

I moved about a year ago to a larger, two story house and had plans for a grander cat enclosure.  A catio is a safe place outdoors for cats that is large enough for some humans to hang out in.  There is a deck on the back of my house which was not being used very much and seemed to be a purrfect place for a catio for me and the cats to hang out.

Due to finances and the desire to get an enclosure up quickly, I chose a pre-fabricated cat house.  The Aivutuvin-AIR52 is a frame structure made up of galvanized mesh panels.  The footprint is about 6′ by 10′. It has a peaked roof (height about 6′) and has a door for human access in the front.

I had assembled the smaller cat enclosure at my townhome myself.  This time, the size of the project was intimidating, so I hired a professional handyman to help with the installation.  This proved to be a good idea as assembling the panels that make up the sides, back and front were a 2-person job. 

The catio opened for use yesterday.  Here are some snapshots of the construction process.

The location: south-facing porch. A “sail” has been put up to offer some shade.

Pet Door in Window

An insert with a pet door is put in the window adjacent to the catio.

Catio construction

Construction phase: note the shelves for the cats to sit on and the swinging bridges.

Catio Completed Construction

Construction is complete.  A tarp will go over the rear half of the catio to provide more shade.

Cats in catio

The catio is open for business. The cats have successfully negotiated entering the enclosure using the pet door in the window insert.

Cat coming in pet door in window.

Time for a break and a snack.  Gus comes inside using the pet door in the window.

A catio is a safe place outdoors for cats.   I will still leash walk my cats daily, weather permitting, but the catio will allow them  to choose to go outside when they want to.  It is large enough for some deck furniture and I am looking forward to spending time outside on the porch with my cats.

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