Cats Protecting Other Cats

Posted on March 28, 2021March 28, 2021 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Cats Protecting Other Cats?

I take my cats on walks around my townhome complex. The grounds are quiet with mature trees and open spaces between the clusters of homes.

The other day, Zelda, the Maine Coon cat, and Gus, my ex-street cat, were ambling along the sidewalks, stopping to smell things and poke around in the vegetation. Zelda was a few feet away from me. Gus was over noodling around in what was left of a snowbank.

A mixed breed terrier (about 25 lbs or so) lives in one of the townhomes near where we were walking. She is an active little dog who usually runs around to check out the cats but typically the cats stand their ground and the dog is recalled by her owner.

Today was different. The terrier rounded the corner behind us and made a beeline for Zelda. Startled, Zelda ran; I lunged for Zelda but was not quick enough and the dog went off in hot pursuit. Zelda runs like a baby elephant – she is not a sprinter! The dog was closing in on Zelda.

I started after her when something grey streaked by on my left – Gus was running with the terrier in his sights! He reached the terrier just as she was reaching Zelda and collided with the dog. The terrier returned to her owner tout de suite!

Gus turned his attention to Zelda. At first, I was worried about a possible cat fight, but he proceeded to herd her back to the front door of our house. I found the two of them sitting quietly by the front door. Needless to say, our walk was over for the moment.

I did not expect that Gus would run the terrier dog off but I was sure glad he did, because I was not going to get there in time to prevent any injury to the dog or Zelda.

We expect this kind of behavior from mother cats protecting kittens but not from cats that did not grow up together.

Cats are known to be solitary hunters that group together to take advantage of plentiful food sources. Cats do not hunt together like a lion pride but the females can share the work of raising and feeding the kittens as do lions. What motivated Gus to help his housemate?

There are numerous videos online where cats protect children, dogs run off coyotes attacking cats, and mother cats protect their kittens from dogs and humans. Videos of cats protecting other cats are scarce. Of course, the video would be hard to get – the last thing I was thinking about was filming the whole thing!

Years ago, a similar incident happened with my two older cats, Athena and Marley, while on our daily walk. Marley had gone ahead to the pond. I was behind Athena when a large red fox (they weigh about 30 lbs) showed up on the walk. Athena froze. Before either Athena or I had a chance to move, the fox bolted past us with Marley on his heels. Once the fox was on his way, Marley returned and greeted both Athena and me.

Why would a cat be aggressive toward another species in these situations?

Threat to his territory?
Threat to a his own safety?
Hunting trigger – was the dog or fox behaving like prey?
Cats protecting other cats?

Why not avoid the predator, slink away and keep yourself safe?

Although the myth persists that male cats will eat kittens, many cat colonies have affiliated male cats. These males will band together with the female cats to protect the kittens from strange male cats(Organization in the Cat: A Modern Understanding) Presumably, the colony might band together to a drive off a threat such as a coyote or pack of dogs.

Gus was a community cat – he grew up living with other cats on the streets. Perhaps Gus has experienced a situation when he was a street cat where his group of cats banded together to protect the kittens or the colony from a pack of dogs. Although he and Zelda did not grow up together, they groom each other’s heads when meeting, indicating that they are part of a social group, an ad hoc “colony”.

Affiliated cats — Gus and Zelda are not a bonded pair but do groom each other.

More than just the availability of food “glues” the cat colony together. Perhaps another benefit is member cats protecting other cats: they have “got each others’ backs!”

Your cat gets aggressive when playing…

Posted on March 21, 2021May 5, 2022 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Owning a cat does not mean that your arms and legs should be covered in bites and scratches. Is there anything you can do if your cat gets aggressive when playing?

First of all – understand “Play” for a cat is hunting practice and it is serious business.

Hardwired to Hunt…

Your cat is good at detecting fast motion – his eyes can process over 60 visual images per second. By comparison, we are able to process 20-30 images per second. Your cat is designed to detect the quick, rapid movements of mice and other rodents. Motion is what attracts him – if the prey “freezes” for long enough, it may get away to live another day.

A successful hunt ends with the capture of the prey. Sharp teeth and claws put an end to the game.

Why your cat gets aggressive when playing…

It may seem cute to let your kitten climb your legs, and pounce on your hands and feet. When your kitten grows to be a large cat, fully equipped with sharp teeth and claws, this kind of play can be dangerous.

Even if you use gloves and let your cat bite and scratch the gloves, she is still viewing YOU as PREY. After all, your arms are connected to the rest of you!

Cat bites and scratches easily become infected. Make sure to clean any bites and scratches with plenty of soap and water. Seek medical attention for bites and scratches that break the skin.

So, you feel your cat gets aggressive while playing. What can you do when he wants to play rough?

Use toys that keep your hands and feet away from him.
Don’t play games that have you pretending to be prey – if you want your cat to run after you, drag a string along behind you so that the string, not you, is the focus of his attention.
Zelda plays with a toy mouse on a wand toy.

What if your cat initiates “rough play”?

What is happening?

Stalking and attacking your legs and feet?
Wrestling and attacking your hands?
Stalking and pouncing on you or the kids?

When does it happen?

When you arrive home from work?
When you are working and not able to pay attention to your cat?

Where does it happen?

Does the behavior occur in a certain place in the house?

THE PLAN: DISTRACT YOUR CAT BEFORE THE “ROUGH PLAY” STARTS

Some examples…

Your cat attacks your legs and feet when you come in the door from work.

Have a basket of toys on a table near the door.
Direct her attention to a wand toy or catnip mouse BEFORE she starts to attack you.
If your cat does manage to complete the pounce, FREEZE – don’t run away, she will “hunt” you

Your cat pounces on you when go through the hallway

This often starts as playing “peek-a-boo” around the corner. It usually goes away on its own, but some more bored cats may make a game of it.
Have a cache of toys nearby or some treats that you toss BEFORE you get to the corner to distract him.
Or have a laser pointer in your pocket if this behavior happens at different corners
If your cat does manage to complete the pounce, FREEZE. Do not reward him by acting like a prey animal trying to get away.

Your cat attacks your arm and hands while you are on the sofa watching TV

Have a cache of toys on a table next to the sofa
If you can intercept your cat before he launches on to the sofa, toss a treat or toy and direct him to it with a laser pointer.
If he gets you in a “clawed” embrace, FREEZE. By not moving, he should lose interest in you.

PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT

A sturdy sheet of cardboard and long pants/sleeves, socks and gloves can shield your legs, feet and hands during the “re-training” period. “Protective gear” will make staying still a bit easier.

Your cat gets aggressive when playing…Other things you can do.

Keep your cat busy and happy.

Consider meal-feeding her with food puzzles – she can hunt for her food and not you!
Have a regular play time around the same time every day.
Set up a “safe place” for your cat to go when things are getting too stressful

Planning ahead – Set up a “Safe Place” for your cat

A safe place should be a place your cat feels secure
A safe place should have all her resources in it
It could be a spare room or hallway with the doors closed

Put your cat in her safe place

when you are working
when there is just too much going on
when she becomes overstimulated

Your cat is a superb hunter. Make sure that he does not view you, your hands or feet as prey. Seek professional help if the simple strategies outlined here don’t work!

Plant Based Cat Food – Does it Have What Cats need?

Posted on March 14, 2021 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

I have been trying some plant-based milks. My most recent purchase was oat milk, fortified with other plant proteins, so that the protein content is similar to that of cow’s milk. While I was having cereal, I was mobbed by three of my cats who demanded a taste. All three liked the oat milk, and now recognize the jug, asking for more.

I am aware that oats can be in pet foods, so a taste of oat milk occasionally should not be a problem. Cats often like cow’s milk but are lactose intolerant. Oat milk does not have lactose.

Was the plant milk appealing because of the added protein? This brand claimed to have the 9 essential amino acids that human adults need and as much protein as cow’s milk.

What amino acids do cats need? Could plant based cat food be healthy with the right supplements?

Cats are what we call “obligate carnivores” -they evolved to eat meat, unlike dogs and humans who are omnivores (eat a combination of plant and animal foods). Cats not only need protein from meat for repairing and building tissue and regulating their metabolism – they need protein to provide energy.

There are 20 amino acids that make up proteins. Human bodies can make 11 of these 20 amino acids – the rest we have to get in food.

Amino acids that we must get from food are called essential amino acids.

Cats can synthesize 9 of the 20 amino acids. Their diet must provide the remaining 11: 9 essential amino acids that we humans require plus 2 additional ones: taurine, arginine.

What happens if a cat does not get Taurine and Arginine?

Not Enough Taurine…

blindness due to retinal degeneration
heart failure
reproductive issues
abnormalities in the central nervous system

Not enough Arginine…

high amounts of ammonia in the bloodstream
seizures and death

Cats need Taurine! — Taurine is a popular supplement in human energy drinks.

Sources of taurine and arginine in nature: animal tissues such as meat, fish and eggs!

What else do cats need to get in their food? Niacin, vitamin A, and vitamin D – their bodies do not make these vitamins.

What if we supplement plant based cat food with taurine, arginine, vitamins…

Proteins can be found in plants as well as animal tissues (meat). However, whereas animal tissues are “complete” and provide all the essential amino acids, plant sources are not “complete”. Taurine is not found in plants.

Now we arrive at the question of digestibility – sufficient amounts of the amino acids and vitamins must be digested from your cat’s food to be available to her body.

Plant based proteins are not as digestible as animal proteins. Plant protein has a different structure than animal protein and there are chemical compounds in plants that affect how well your cat’s digestive enzymes break down her food.

Recent research indicates that it is the “non-protein” part of whole grains that affects the digestibility of plant proteins. One finding in this 9 year study was that cats were able to digest appropriately processed plant proteins such as corn gluten as well as they digest chicken and fish proteins.

The Future of Cat Food

There is an ethical and economical drive to reduce the carbon footprint of companion animals and one way is to reduce their consumption of meats sourced from livestock bred for this purpose. Increasing the amount of plant protein in commercial cat food is the subject of current research.

There are some plant based cat foods already on the market. However, I was not able to find ones that advertised having done AAFCO feeding trials. There are concerns about nutritional adequacy with these foods. Personally, I am not ready to risk my “fur babies” on these foods yet.

I feel we will see more plant-based foods for our cats in the future. In the meantime, make sure your cat’s food has taurine, arginine, niacin, Vitamin A and Vitamin D in addition to plenty of “complete” protein.

Make sure to feed your cat a diet formulated for cats. Dog food typically does not contain the taurine, arginine, niacin, and vitamin A required by cats.

Tips for Choosing a Cat Carrier

Posted on March 7, 2021March 7, 2021 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Your cat’s carrier should be his castle. His carrier should be a place of safety and comfort, a little piece of home away from home. Cats are territorial and are attached to their territory. When your cat travels, the stroller, backpack or carrier is part of his territory – it has his scent and is a “safe place” for him.

You may need different carriers depending on what you are doing. Strollers and backpacks are more suited to walking or hiking with your cat. A kennel-style cat carrier is better for extended car travel and veterinary visits.

Cat in hard kennek — The top comes off this hard kennel, making it easy to load Gus in the carrier.

There are many kennel-style cat carriers that you can buy. Here are some tips when choosing a cat carrier that you plan to use for extended car travel or vet visits.

the carrier should be large enough for your cat to stand up and turn around.
it should have a rigid frame so that it does not collapse on your cat.
it should be easy to take apart or have more than one opening where you can easily remove your cat from the carrier
easy to clean
make your cat feel safe and secure – like a wildcat’s den

Tips for Choosing a Cat Carrier for Car Travel and Vet Visits…

Hard, plastic carriers

come in lots of sizes.
many have detachable tops which makes getting your cat in and out easy
they are easy to clean
can be covered with a blanket or towel to make your cat feel secure

Flexible, fabric carriers

attractive and are not as bulky as the hard plastic ones
some of these carriers tend to collapse in on your cat and are not as comfortable for him to stay in for longer periods of time
more difficult to clean than the hard, plastic kennels

Even if the carrier is rigid and has a top panel that zips open or unlatches, it can be difficult to put the cat in when he doesn’t volunteer to go in on his own. It can be hard to fit your cat and your hands through the top panels. Some fabric carriers have a zippered front and side mesh panels, making loading and unloading a bit easier.

Choosing a cat carrier that comes apart into two sections – a top and a bottom – can be really handy. If you need to get the cat out of the carrier, you can remove the top half and gently pick him up out of the bottom. You can put him back in the carrier in the same way. Your veterinarian can examine your cat in the bottom half of the carrier, where he feels safe. The bottom half can double as a basket to sleep in.

Fom the feline purrspective… being dragged bodily out of a place you are sheltering in is confusing and frightening. Be aware that a cat may feel threatened if you have to drag him out and may strike or even bite.

Choosing a Cat Carrier…Make your Cat’s Carrier His Castle

THERE’S NO PLACE LIKE HOME

Leave the carrier out at home and let your cat nap and play in it. Place it in a “neutral” area – away from food and litter boxes.

PURRSONALIZE THE CARRIER

Place a towel or blanket that has your cat’s smell in the carrier. Put some of his favorite toys and treats in the carrier.

FUN AND GAMES

You can also play games with your cat in and around the carrier. If your cat is fond of “treat toss” (tossing treats that kitty “hunts” down), make sure some treats go into the carrier during the game.

TAKE KITTY FOR CAR RIDES THAT DON’T END UP AT THE VET.

Start with short rides, maybe just around the block. Work up to longer rides to pleasant places – if you have a cat stroller you could work up to going for walks in the park. Remember, always move at your cat’s pace – if he is hunched and hiding, slow down and shorten the length of the ride until kitty is comfortable. Ask your vet about treating carsickness if your cat is prone to it.

CLEAN AS A WHISTLE

Clean your cat’s carrier regularly. When you are finished, spray the carrier and the bedding inside with Feliway, a synthetic feline pheromone that tells your cat that this a safe place. Make sure to give enough time for the alcohol in the spray to dissipate before using the carrier – 20 minutes should do the trick!

A Cat in his carrier — Marley is “king of his castle”!

Car travel – where to put your cat’s carrier in the car

The Center for Pet Safety recommends placing your cat’s carrier behind the front passenger seat or driver seat.
Crash tests have shown that the seatbelt used to secure a carrier can actually crush it in an accident.
Unless the manufacturer can show you that the carrier survives a crash test buckled up, don’t use the seat belts with your cat’s carrier.

Using CBD for Your Cat to manage pain and anxiety

Posted on February 28, 2021February 28, 2021 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Cat sniffs cannabis plant — Background by Next Green Wave on Unsplash

CBD for Your Cat?

CBD, short for cannabidiol, is an increasingly popular supplement. It comes from the hemp plant, a cousin to the marijuana plant. It does not get you “high” like marijuana.

CBD supplements are used to manage anxiety, insomnia and chronic pain. Recently, Epidiolex, a medication containing CBD, has received FDA approval to treat seizures resulting from several rare forms of epilepsy. Apart from Epidiolex, CBD is marketed as a supplement, not a medication. The FDA does not regulate the safety, purity or efficacy of supplements. You don’t know for sure if the product you buy actually has the active ingredients listed.

Can you use CBD for your cat to manage anxiety and pain?

The Endocannabinoid System (ECS ) is a complex cell-signaling system in the bodies of animals, both vetebrates and invertebrates. It was identified in the early 1990s by researchers exploring THC (tetrahydrocannabinol), a well-known cannabinoid found in marijuana. The ECS helps maintain a balance among the physiologic processes in the body.

Your body produces chemical compounds called cannabinoids that bind to cannabinoid receptors in the bone, brain, heart, liver, spleen (all part of the ECS) and regulate processes in your body. The ECS is thought to reduce inflammation, pain and stress.

CBD is a cannabinoid and can bind to the receptors in the ECS. While it is exciting to think that we may soon be able to supplement our own ECS (possibly our cat’s ECS) to manage anxiety and pain using CBD, the problem is that we don’t know much about CBD. There are few scientific studies regarding its effects and dosing in humans, much less cats.

Cats are not little people in fur suits…

Cats’ DNA lacks certain genes that code for some of the enzymes that metabolize human drugs and supplements. Notable examples are aspirin, acetaminophen and ibuprofen.
The length of time a drug stays in your cat is different than how long it remains in your body. Cats are smaller; their gastrointestinal tracts are different than ours.
Side effects in humans include drowsiness, mood swings, decreased appetite, and diarrhea – we don’t know if cats would experience the same side effects

CDB oil is typically administered to cats and dogs orally, in food or treats. These are supplements – you have to rely on the CBD manufacturers to regulate themselves. You don’t always know if the product actually contains CBD or how much CBD. There are few clinical studies to guide with dosing CBD for your cat.

The National Animal Supplement Counsel is a group of supplement manufacturers that is trying to regulate the safety of commercial supplements. They require their members to provide a certificate of analysis indicating potency, per-dosing unit, all ingredients and the presence of metals or pesticides.

If you would like to try CBD for your cat, do so under the supervision of veterinarian who has experience with prescribing CBD. He or she can recommend a particular brand, a dose for your cat, and monitor of kidney and liver values if needed while kitty is on CBD.

Above all…
PLEASE do not expect supplements or drugs to substitute for providing your kitty with an environment that he will thrive in. Make sure your cat’s habitat makes him feel safe and secure by meeting his behavioral and emotional needs.

a safe place
multiple, separate resources
regular and predictable human interaction
opportunity to hunt
a habitat that maintains the colony scent

Supplements For Cats

Posted on February 21, 2021February 21, 2021 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

We want to feel good; we want our cats to feel good. Supplements that can be bought over the counter are popular. The claims are appealing – there are dietary supplements to make you feel happy, calm, or pain-free; there are also essential oils that make similar claims.

Supplements for Cats -Which Ones are Safe and Effective?

The Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM) is a branch of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The CVM regulates food and drugs for animals. There is not a separate category for animal supplements – a supplement is either determined to be a food or a drug. If the product claims to treat or prevent disease, it is a drug.

There are many veterinary supplements available over the counter. Many of these supplements claim to treat medical conditions, for example, urinary tract infections, and are basically unapproved drugs.

An Unregulated Market

Unofficially, supplements for cats are treated like supplements for humans – they are not reviewed for safety, effectiveness or quality prior to being marketed. The active ingredient can vary among different supplement brands. If problems arise with one of these supplements while it is being sold, the FDA can take action against the manufacturer – this process would most likely take a long time.

Cat with catnipn plant — Marley nibbles (supervised!) on a catnip plant. A little catnip is OK; too much can cause GI distress.

Herbal Supplements for Cats

Herbs like chamomile and lavender are touted as calming for humans. These herbs can actually be toxic to cats. There are few clinical studies showing any benefit of herbal infusions for cats. Even catnip is not 100% safe – if a cat eats too much of the herb, he can have vomiting and diarrhea. Do your homework with herbs and check their safety.

Essential Oils and Cats

Just because something is natural does not mean it may not be harmful. Essential oils can be found in diffusers and can also be applied topically. Many of these oils are actually toxic to cats.

Diffusers release droplets of these essential oils into the air. If your cat breathes in these toxic droplets, her lungs can become inflamed. She may cough, vomit or drool; her eyes may water. In some instances, your kitty can develop pneumonia.
Topical administration of essential oils also present risks due to toxicity and possible ingestion. Kitty can ingest the oil while grooming.

Human Drugs/Supplements – NOT for Cats!

Cats’ DNA lacks certain genes that code for some of the enzymes that metabolize human drugs and supplements. Notable examples are aspirin, acetaminophen and ibuprofen.
The length of time a drug stays in your cat is different than how long it remains in your body – they are smaller and have a gastrointestinal tract that is different than ours.

Dietary Supplements for Cats

There are lots of supplements on the market meant for cats to take by mouth.

If you are feeding a high-quality cat food, supplementation with vitamins and minerals is most likely unnecessary.
Other popular supplements for cats include fatty acids for skin/haircoat and joint support, such as glucosamine.
While most of these supplements are safe, consult your veterinarian regarding which supplement to buy and how much to give.

Choosing a Supplement for Your Cat – An Example

What do you need the supplement to do?

Make an older cat with arthritis more comfortable.

Are there any environmental changes that can help?

Steps to high places, heated beds, low walled litter boxes, daily play time can help. Caring for Your Older Cat

Clinical studies for this supplement?

Few clinical studies for cats – some studies in dogs

What form is the supplement? Will you be able to give it easily?

Glucosamine and Green Lipped Mussel come in capsules and chews; Adequan is an injection that is approved for dogs that can be used in cats

Side effects? Other concerns?

Arthritis supplements may effect how long it takes for your cat’s blood to clot – they must be dosed properly.

If your cat is overweight, losing weight can reduce the load on her joints.

Is your cat on any prescription drugs? Are there any interactions with these and the supplement?

Your veterinary team is your primary resource when navigating the stormy sea of supplements. Your veterinarian can recommend a supplement if your cat needs one, advise you of possible side effects and monitor your cat while taking the supplement.

If you are concerned about the feline expertise of a veterinary practice, consider choosing one of the American Association of Feline Practitioners’ Cat Friendly Practices.

Walking Cats – Confessions of a Cat Herder

Posted on February 14, 2021February 14, 2021 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

A lifelong cat owner, I had an indoor-outdoor cat as a child. I continued to have cats as I grew older, gradually spending more and more time with them. When I took a break from work for two years to sail from California to Maryland via the Panama Canal, I took my two siamese cats with me and I am relieved to say that they both made it home and lived to be 17 and 18 years old.

When we moved to Colorado, I began to supervise my cats’ outdoor activities due to the number of predators that were around. For several years, we lived in a house that bordered on an open space. At night, you could the coyotes howling and hunting in the open space behind the house.

Cats could only go out with a human supervisor. At the time, I had two long haired cats that would follow me and stay close by while I gardened; our domestic short hair preferred to stay indoors exclusively.

Around this time, I read My Pride and Joy by George Adamson of “Born Free” fame. Adamson was known for rehabilitating captive lions and returning them to a wild existence. He would take groups of these captive-raised unrelated lions and establish artificial prides. One of the daily exercises the “pride” engaged in was a walk. I wondered if walking cats together would help them get along better.

And so started the ritual of walking cats every morning. The townhomes I live in are an impromptu retirement community. The grounds are spacious with older trees and a pond. The roads in the complex are quiet with little traffic.

After several attempts at walking cats on leashes and having to let them climb trees with leashes dangling as they tried to escape the neighbors’ dogs (often on leashes), we changed to a “freedom” walk. The cats were not leashed and followed me around. I reinforced this behavior with treats.

(Update: I have found that I have to leash Gus, my formerly feral cat. He is still inclined to roam and get into cat fights.)

None of my cats are littermates. Some of the cats engage in friendly behavior (grooming each other) but others are aloof from their housemates indoors. Social Groups of Cats

Being outside is a different story. The four cats will band together, for example, if a strange cat approaches. They don’t fight amongst each when the intruder shows up.

One cat may growl at another if he is further away, but once close up, they will touch noses and confirm that they are part of the same group.

George Adamson established “artificial” prides; we establish “artificial” colonies when we house unrelated cats together. Like a colony of free-roaming cats, the indoor “colony” has its own signature scent which the members recognize each other by.

I guess it is a case of
“Better the Devil You Know than the Devil You Don’t”,
or, from the feline purrspective,
“Better the Devil who Smells Like You than the Devil Who Doesn’t”

Tips for Taking Your Cat for a Walk

Posted on February 7, 2021October 1, 2021 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

I have seen a lot of advertisements and posts recently on social media about taking your cat for a walk. This can be a source of enrichment for your cat; it is also be a great time to take photos of your friend and bond with her more.

Just like many humans, cats don’t like surprises. If you want to try taking your cat for a walk, be prepared to spend at least a few weeks preparing him.

What you need

A harness made for cats – these should be adjustable with comfortable padding to distribute the pressure on his neck and chest if he pulls against the harness
a leash – a leash about 4-6 feet long will work. I use an extendable leash with a bungee leash on the end in case my cat goes after a rabbit or mouse.
“treats for the trail”

Training for the Trail: The Harness

Let your cat smell the harness.
Slide the harness over his head. Click, treat and remove.
Work up to clipping the back.
Leave the harness on for increasingly longer times.
MAKE THIS FUN – MAKE SURE TO REWARD HIM.

Training for the Trail: Walking Indoors

Practice walks inside – using the leash
if your cat has been trained to a target, get him to walk along for short distances on the leash following the target
Alternatively, toss a treat in front of him to get him to move forward

Taking Your Cat for a Walk: Choose the Place

A back yard or enclosed area is an ideal place to start
Choose a QUIET time for his first walks

Taking your Cat for a Walk: Venturing further Afield

your cat is a small animal who is a predator but is also prey
you must provide a safe place for your cat if predators or unwanted people show up
If you walk on sidewalks and paths, a pet stroller can be a wise investment
If you are more adventurous, a backpack can be a solution.

Both backpack and stroller are best introduced to your cat with training. Your cat will soon figure out the stroller or pack means safety from dogs and sunshine.

Hazards of the “Trail”

Cat Fights

Strange cats: Feral cats are most likely not going to be around when you are out – they avoid humans and typically hunt during the evening and night time hours. Free-roaming pets or community cats present more problems. This is when you want to have your cat leashed.

Be attentive to your surroundings – your superior color vision can sometimes pick out strange cats before your cat is aware of them. You may be able to put her in her stroller or pack or take evasive action before there are any hostilities.

Monitor you cat’s body posture (tense, alert?) and vocalizations (low growl?) – these can indicate the presence of a strange cat. Once your cat is aware of the stranger, AVOID picking him up. Encourage the stranger to go away, while keeping a firm grip on the leash.

I have had a cat stalk us while I was walking Gus. I did encourage the strange cat to go away, verbally and with a well thrown pebble while keeping a firm grip on Gus’s leash.

Dogs

When I started walking cats around my townhome, I very quickly learned that many dogs are not well-trained – they escape their owners, leashes flying the breeze and make a beeline for your cat.

Offer the stroller or pack to your cat as a refuge. Training your cat to sit when dogs approach can be helpful – if your cat does not run, the dog usually will not chase them.

Be calm and assertive to the approaching dog – firmly command them to “sit” or “down” or “stay” (common commands the dog may know). Don’t turn your back on on the dog; don’t stare directly at him. Back away slowly. More tips..

Cars

Cars are terrifying – we need to get kitty into a safe place.

Train your cat to be picked up so that you can hold her or put her in the stroller or pack. Cue is “up”, click while lifting, and make sure to reward when you put her down.

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Caring for Your Older Cat

Posted on January 31, 2021 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Cats are considered mature at 7-10 years, senior at 11-14 years (human age 60-72 years) and Super Senior at 15+ years (human age 76+ years) (Your cat’s age in human years). Here are some tips for caring for your older cat.

Once past 2 years, cats age at a rate of 4 years per every human year. Regular veterinary visits are beneficial for your Mature, Senior and Super Senior cats. Good veterinary care can make your older cat’s senior years golden years.

Mature, Senior and Super Senior cats have the same needs as younger animals.

safe place
multiple and separated resources – food, water, litter boxes
opportunity for play
positive, consistent and predictable human interaction
an environment that respects the cat’s sense of smell

Caring for Your Older Cat: The “Senior” Cat Friendly Home

Safe Places

Steps to bed for older cat — A step ladder gives Athena easy access to the bed.

An older cat needs private and secure places to retreat to, to rest and take a break from household activity. Steps or ramps provide easy access to higher places. A heated bed with extra padding can be a real hit for an older cat stiff from arthritis.

Resources – Food, Water, Litter Boxes

Ice cube tray as a food puzzle — This older cat is getting lunch from an ice cube tray.

Still a hunter at heart, your older cat is designed to eat small meals, frequently during the day. Feeding stations throughout the house will encourage her to prowl and “hunt” her food, stimulating her physically and mentally.

Your old cat will most likely drink more than he did when he was young. Locate water sources throughout the house. If your cat seems stiff, try raising his food and water up so that he does not have to crouch down as much to eat and drink.

Litter Box from storage tote — A storage tote has been repurposed as a litter box. The front opening is low and was cut with heavy duty shears and a hacksaw. A trash can for scooping is nearby.

THE LITTER BOX

Large enough for your cat to turn around.
Entrance has a low sill for easy access.
On each floor of the house
In areas that are secluded and private
Finer textured litter may be more comfortable for older kitty paws.

Play is still important

Older cats can still can benefit from swatting at a wand toy or chasing treats. Daily play time close to early morning or early evening mimics the cat’s natural rhythms – prey is most active at these times.

Human Interaction

A familiar predictable routine reduces anxiety for all cats. Caring for your older cat should include grooming as well as play time. Grooming becomes more challenging for older cats as their flexibility decreases.

Make grooming sessions frequent and short.
Cats often groom after eating. This is a good time to gently comb or brush the older cat.
Regular nail trims are important for older kitties – the nails of older cats can sometimes grow into their paw pads, which is painful.
Older cats still need access to scratching areas – horizontal and angled scratchers may be easier for them to use

Your Cat’s Sense of Smell

Cats have a sense of smell that is 14x more sensitive than ours.

Diffusers containing facial pheromones placed near some of your older cat’s resting places will convey the messages of familiarity and safety
Scratching releases pheromones from glands in your cat’s paws that help mark his territory- have scratchers available to your older cat
Avoid using scented litters and strong smelling cleaners

Outdoor Access

SAFE outdoor access is stimulating for older cats as well as young cats. Your cat may like some supervised outdoor time with you – the daily “walk” can provide quality time for both cat and owner.

IF you are lucky enough to live in a quiet neighborhood or have access to a quiet park, a cat stroller can get you and your old friend out.

Get her used to the stroller first – offer some food in it, let her nap in it
Start with SHORT walks in QUIET places at QUIET times.
Increase the walking time IF she is enjoying it.

Cats are territorial

Posted on January 23, 2021 by felinepurrspective_u3q4o6

Cats are territorial. What does this mean for cat guardians?

An outdoor cat’s home range is the maximum area he roams and hunts in. Within the home range is a smaller area that the cat will actively defend – his territory. Inside this defended area is a smaller area called the “core territory”, where the cat can rest, has shelter, and feels safe from predators and other cats.

Free-roaming cats establish their territories around food supplies. They remain solitary hunters and don’t share prey with other cats. Access to food, water and places to rest and shelter are some reasons why cats will fight with each other. Having a secure, established territory is essential to the free-roaming cat’s survival.

When cats move inside, their territories shrink and the house becomes the territory. Home ranges still apply for cats with outdoor access. Within the house, cats will choose their core territories – their safe places where they go to nap and feel secure.

In my 4 cat household, Athena and Marley choose the master bedroom as their safe place, with comfortable resting places, water and access to a litter box; Gus’s safe place is the back office; Zelda floats between the office and the master bedroom.

What are the threats to the territory of the indoor cat?

Outdoor cats: Neighborhood cats that come in the yard or come to the windows of the home may be seen as a threat by the indoor resident cat(s). The threatened cat may strike out at humans or other pets nearby because he can’t get at the cat outside but is prepared to defend his territory.
Other resident cats: Cats are territorial and remain territorial when they are kept indoors. There are often multiple social groups in a multi-cat home. Cats of one social group may guard resources such as litter boxes, food and water from cats of another group.
People, other animals, inanimate objects: Although territorial behavior usually involves other cats, cats may see other species or things as threats to their resources and well-being, as threats to a secure territory.

You will see your cat rubbing her face against walls and furniture. She is depositing pheromones from glands in her face to mark the area as safe. Cats also routinely mark areas by scratching, releasing another pheromone from glands in their paws, an olfactory signal to other cats that they passed by. This is normal behavior that the cat guardian needs to accommodate by providing scratching post and cleaning the “whisker walls” sparingly. Maintain the colony scent..

If your indoor cat perceives a threat, he may feel the need to mark the house with urine (sometimes feces) to establish the house as his territory. He also may respond to the “threat” with aggression.

It is up to the cat guardian to understand that cats are territorial and ideally modify the environment before marking or aggression starts.

What you can do:

Diagram social groups cats — There are 3 social groups in this 4 cat household.

Outdoor animals: Restrict access to your yard if you can. “Critter spikes” can deter some cats and raccoons from scaling fences. A motion activated yard sprinkler can also be effective. You may wish to cover windows with static cling window film so that cats can’t see out.
Multi-cat conflict: Identify the social groups in the household. Make sure resources are spread out and all the cats in the household have easy access to resources of their choice. Pay particular attention to the dynamics of feeding, using litter boxes, and resting. Make sure that all cats have an opportunity to exercise their hunting skills through play. Set up time-sharing for social groups if necessary.
People, other animals, inanimate objects: Isolate your cat from the stressor or desensitize her if possible. For example, if she feels threatened by visitors, train her to go a safe place out of reach when visitors arrive. Request that visitors refrain from interacting with your cat unless she chooses to interact. Make sure to reward her with something she likes in her safe place. She may elect to leave the room or observe from her safe place.